The Restaurant Association of Nova Scotia has been running "Dine Out" a program of Prix Fixé menus at many places around town.
Research indicates that the best looking one for price and menu is at 44 North, the in house restaurant in the former Casino Nova Scotia Hotel, now the Halifax Harbourfront Marriott. A hotel restaurant! You say, how could I eat there?
Well, here is the menu.
To Start
Seared Atlantic Scallops with Wild Mushroom
Spinach & a Saffron Vanilla Sauce
Or
Quenelle of Truffled Brie & Caramelized Apples
Mains
Butter Poached Atlantic Lobster, Sautéed Foie Gras & Port Poached Figs, with Leek, Yukon Gold & Sweet Potato Pave
Or
Braised Northumberland Lamb Shanks with Truffled White Beans, Wild Mushroom & Red Wine Emulsion & Gremolata
Or
Pan Seared Halibut with Sea Salt Fingerling Potatoes, & Kumquat/ Cumin Buerre Blanc
Sweet Temptation
Warm Macadamia and Apple Streusel Cake with Blueberry & Lavender Syrup
One of each course for a fixed price of $37 per person.
So, on a Saturday night, we plan to go for 7:30 pm. A table for 6, please, K&J, and Bucky and his date, Ash. That makes for a tough wine crowd to please. A stop at my place for a shared bottle of Charles Ellner Brut Rosé Champagne (NV) and a few snackies, and we're off.
Now this is where my buddy K used to work, and he is still very well known (and apparently liked) by the remaining staff. I expect the level of service we'll get will exceed the norm.
We order a bottle of Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling, the latest vintage with screwcaps (yeah, no corked wine!) and order up. A tray of nice bread arrives and we chew on it while deciding. Of course, being shellfish sensitive, I've no problem with my choices.
Chef Eric Rochefort (a Cordon Bleu trained Chef and also a Certified Sommelier) comes out, as do many of the staff, to see K, and explains that when he says "truffled" he means truffled. Not just truffle oil, but some real truffles are in the Brie "Quenelle" which is apparently a "stirred up with a spoon" type of thing.
My first course is the Brie. I have ordered a bottle of the Spy Valley Pinot Noir, anticipating that it will match both my courses, and that K will try some too (I am correct on both counts). It arrives, and to our surprise, is from the 2006 vintage! I wonder how they got it here that fast. In time, through the evening, it shows itself to be a wine to buy, and maybe wait a little bit on (screwcap too!).
The truffled brie is gooey, almost like an uncooked bread dough, and you have to cut little chunkies off the main part. Put one in your mouth with some of the diced carmelized apples and YUM, then add some Pinot Noir and the fun increases. I take about twice the time to eat my appetizer as the rest of them do to scarf down their scallops. I have them looking at me expectantly like the mollusk-eaters they are.
In time I finish, and this allows staff to serve the next course, a small amuse-bouche of vodka sorbet on some shredded cured vegetables, including a fantastic visual and taste effect from shredded fennel in strawberry juice.
The main course is coming! Now let's read the menu again. Truffled White Beans, Wild Mushroom & Red Wine Emulsion. That sounds to me almost like cassoulet. The next day, Eric is sitting with me at a wine class and he admits to working on the beans with that in mind, but as it was not a real cassoulet he would not call it by that name (I refer you to the language of cooking discussion earlier in my visit to janes on the common avec Chef Claude).
This dish is fantastic. I am pretty well engrossed in the great braised lamb flavours, and the slightly spicey, rich mushroomy sauce that I spoon beans into my mouth with. I play with different combos of meat, beans, sauce and veg. I dive in. I forget about my dining partners. The wine works well with it, though a South of France Corbieres or Minervois might be even better.
When I come out of my eating frenzy induced trance, with some still left to eat, I check my shirt to make sure I have not splattered food all over it (amazingly, no) and make some table patter, before diving back in to finish.
Well, that was quite nice, eh?
Everyone had enjoyed their food very much - the lobster had been partly dismembered and turned into some fancier cuisine, although the front parts were intact meat. L had the halibut, which she enjoyed. They were all enthusiastically dissecting the pave - a layered construction of leek, Yukon Gold potato, and sweet potato.
In a short while, dessert arrived, and I had some Pinot left to try with that - well, it had so much body and substance, and not too much sugar, that the red wine actually was good, and very interesting with it. I also tried a wee dram of someone's Dow's 20 yr old Tawny Port, as a cheese tray had suddenly appeared from nowhere.
The verdict? One of the best meals I've had this year, and like one of last year's great meals, in a hotel restaurant at that!
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