Sunday, October 01, 2006

The Big Port of Wines Show - Redux

Well if you read my earlier post on this wine event, I can tell you, none of the questions were answered.

I was in the venue for all four sessions. Of the 270 wines there for tasting, I managed to taste 92 enough to form some impression. In some cases, about 45, I have a short note. I did not taste many wines I already know.

My overal impression this year was that the wines were of a higher average quality, with a large number of very good wines between $15 and $20. That will make the monopoly's decisions that much harder as there is little to choose between a lot of the wines. I guess whoever buys the bigger store display programs will be able to sell wine to us.

There was no one great wine at this show. You may think so, but this is my blog. But I did pick a best red and best white, below. Plus, I've included a best buy recommendation at the bottom.

Here are my favourites, by cost bracket, with comment on whether the notes in the program and the medal allocation seemed reasonable.

Class 1 - who cares what it costs

Iscay Merlot Malbec, Argentina, 2003 $50 Amazing, but the 'Drinker agrees with the secret NSLC wine judge cadre.
William Fevre, 2004 Chablis, Beauroy, Prmier Cru, $43 - just about a perfect example of Chablis. The NSLC ignored it, but then maybe they thought it needed more oak.
Bouchard Pere et Fils Savigny-les-Beaune Les Lavieres, 2002, $47. Tied for my best Pinot Noir at the show. Again, perhaps too complex for the judges.
Torres Mas Borras Pinot Noir, Spain, 2004, $47. Great nose, well made, everyone I asked about this one loved it. I bought. This was the one the Burgundy tied with. Maybe the NSLC forgot to judge it?
Eikendahl Vineyards Classique, South Africa, 2002, $43. Bordeaux Blend, my favourite of this style at the show. I bought. NSLC noticed it - Bronze Medal.
Warwick Wine Estates, Trilogy, South Africa, 2003, $42. Bordeaux Blend, close to the Eikendahl. All wines from Warwick were first class, and the NSLC agreed giving medals to all four of their wines, probably making them the most successful winery here, by that measure.
Masi Granderella, Italy, 2002, $39. Best Italian red, easily, by a long way, of the ones I tried. One of the best wines in the show. NSLC Silver.
Heath Wines, 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz, Oz, 2003 $62. Under screwcap! Worth every penny, I suppose. Gold Medal.
Sandalford Premium Shiraz, 2003, Oz, $33. Good example of cooler climate Shiraz from Oz. Will age well.
St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz, Oz, $39. Classic top of the line Oz Shiraz. Gold Medal.
Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002, Oz, $39. Yes, Wolf Blass makes great wine at this level. This was lovely stuff.

Class 2 Under $18 - $30 and worth more. Note, I am being a bit cruel here by leaving out some wines, but I can't include everything. Also I did not taste many wines I already know, including NS wines, etc.

Cono Sur Vision Pinot Noir, Chile, 2005, $22. Great nose, a bit polished, but yummy stuff. I bought. NSLC missed.
Val D'Orbieu, Cuvee Mythique Shiraz Grenache, 2004, $18. Big wine, controlled, interesting. No medal.
Chateau St. Germain Coteaux de Languedoc Organic, $20. Great stuff, both a high quality and a bargoon wine. I bought. No medal, which is totally unbelievable.
Bonterra Vineyards Syrah, 2003, California, $20 Organic. Good example of Cali Syrah for $20 plus it's organic, if that matters to you. NSLC Silver.
Allesverloren Estate Shiraz, 2004, $23, South Africa. One of my show faves. Great wine for the money. I bought. NSLC Missed this, again, hard to believe this did not rate a mdeal, but perhaps all those Warwick wines deservedly took a lot of the available awards.
Warwick Estates Old Bush Vines Pinotage, 2004, $29. More Pinotage than I ever thought you could fit into a bottle and still have it taste like Pinotage. I bought. NSLC Gold.
Hilarius Putz Dry Riesling, 2004, $23, Germany. The best German wine here at the show. But not according to the medals.
Tresa Nivuro Nero D'Avola-Cab Sauvignon, 2003, $24, Italy. Not goopy, but an interesting combo of old vs. new world. No medals - in Italy most red wine awards were given to drinks I have a hard time calling wine. Big goopy sweet port like, things that were truly awful.
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina dei Feudi di San Gregario, 2005, Italy, $25. Complex aromas, layered tastes, banana esters, straw, burlap, rancio, all sorts of things. Very cool. I bought.
Vigneti La Selvanella Chianti Classico Reserva, 2001, $23 Italy. Classic Classico Reserva for a good price. Bronze Medal.
Masi Colbaraca Soave Classico, $24. Excellent, easy to drink, great with food. No medal... huh?
Terre di Giurfo, Ronna Syrah, 2005, $27. Will age into something special I am guessing. Good now, but wait 5 years. No medal, but this is a sleeper.
Vesevo Greco di Tufo 2005, $27 Italy. Possibly best white I tried at the show behind the Chablis. Great stuff, interesting, complex. Platinum last year, nothing this year - someone did not buy advertising!
Dennis Wines, Merlot and Shiraz. Oz, $26, 2004, 03. Both well made wines that will age, and have structure and class.
Heath WInes Southern Sisters Pinot Noir, 2003, Oz, $25. Great nose, bit too much oak, but nice secondary fruit. Silver medal. I bought.
St. Hallett Eden Valley Riesling, 2005, $25 Oz. Best riesling I tasted, by far. In the top three whites, I'd say. (no medal, but that does not surprise me as only the private stores have staff who understand Oz Riesling yet). I bought.
Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cab Sauvignon, 2004, $25, Oz. Classic Oz Cab for $25 and will age.


Class 3 (the best one) BARGOONS! Under $18 but worth a lot more.

Lurton Flor de Torrontes, 2005, Argentina, $15. Aromatic nose, but with lemon lime acidity. Great anytime. Platinum Medal (good job judges!)
Domaine Jean Bousquet Organic Malbec, 2005, $16. Huge monster of a wine that will age a while, perfect with rare beef. Needs time. (I poured this one for two sessions, and I got some for myself). No medal.
Trapiche Broquel Malbec, 2004, $16. More polished approachable Malbec, (a year older). Balanced, classy. No medal.
Concha y Toro Casillero del Diabolo Carmenere, 2005, Chile, $13. Probably the most complex wine for the money at the show. Wonderful value. No medal.
Vina Cantaluna Pinot Noir, Chile, 2005, $14.50. Best value Pinot at the show. Has competition from Trapiche and Cono Sur with wines not at the show. No medal. Someone does not understand Pinot Noir....
Jost Eagle Tree Muscat, Nova Scotia, $17. Best white wine made here. A must for serving with scallops to people from out of Province. No medal, Quebec judges?
Barton & Guestier Vouvray, 2004, France, $17. Textbook Vouvray for $17. So quaffable. No medal.
Chateau St. Germain Didier Coteaux de Languedoc, Organic, 2004, $14. If the Carmenere isn't the most complex wine for the $, then this is. Huge, needing time, but complex and with structure. Unreal value. Totally missed by the judges...
Rene Barbier Tempranillo Merlot, 2004, Spain, $13. Simply a great deal for the complexity and quality. No medal.
Finca Antigua Syrah, 2004, Spain, $17. Structure, fruit and tannin, will age, but nice now. No medal.
KWV International, Steen, 2006, South Africa, $10.50. You cannot beat this for a clean white table wine with some interest, for that price. No medal.
Casa Girelli Fontella Chianti, 2004, Italy, $12.50. You gotta be kidding me. OK, it is a bit hot, but it tastes like Chianti, for $12.50. Unreal. No medal.
Folonari Shiraz, 2005, Italy, $12.30. Better than cheap Oz, and with some structure to boot. Great party wine. No medal.
Saint Clair Vineyards, Vicars Choice Pinot Noir, 2005, NZ, $17.32. Complex, good acidity Pinot Noir for food or drinking. Tastes like a much more expensive bottle. No medal.
Jindalee Premium Selection Pinot Noir, 2004, Oz, $18. Well made, lower alcohol, some pinot funk from Oz for $17.98. No medal.



My best red wine of show?
Warwick Estates Old Bush Vines Pinotage, 2004, $29. More Pinotage than I ever thought you could fit into a bottle and still have it taste like Pinotage. This was really my only "ah ha!" wine of the entire weekend. It stretched my idea of what that grape can do, and was just delicious while doing so.

My best white wine of Show? Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina dei Feudi di San Gregario, 2005, Italy, $25. Complex aromas, layered tastes, banana esters, straw, burlap, rancio, all sorts of things. Yes, the Chablis is a better technical wine, and the Eden Valley Riesling was wonderful, but again, I'm going with a wine that set me back on my heels when I tasted it.

Best values

No contest in the white - the KWV International Steen (AKA Chenin Blanc), 2006, South Africa, $10.50
Second is easily the Lurton Flor de Torrontes, 2005, Argentina, $15.

A tie in the reds:

Chateau St. Germain Didier Coteaux de Languedoc, Organic, 2004, $14. Huge, needing time, but complex and with structure.
Casa Girelli Fontella Chianti, 2004, Italy, $12.50. You gotta be kidding me. OK, it is a bit hot, but it tastes like Chianti, for $12.50

It becomes clear that the medal winning wines were not always what I thought should be recognized, but then there are overlaps. These tend to occur where the wines are made with food in mind, and in cooler climates. The judge panel clearly showed a preference for new age style wines made as beverages, with high alcohol, overly extracted fruit, rich flavours and low acidity.

No comments: