Saturday, August 01, 2009

Beer Buzz about Town

Just when you thought it was getting a bit boring, beer has been making news all over. From Bud Light Lime to Nash's SmaSh, beer in Halifax just got a bit more interesting this past month.

I know that I am going straight to hell now that I have admitted to buying, with real money that I earned with my own tiny brain, some Bud Light Lime -or is that Bud Lite Lime?. Is "lite" now the American spelling for "light"? Probably. But I digress.

The limey thing tastes like an insipid beer made palatable for use on a hot day by the addition of some acidity and fruitiness. I am not a beer snob (I prefer geek) and I can handle this drink (is it beer?, well, I guess it qualifies) on a hot day. With my capacity and its alcohol content, it is little more than pop anyway.

But on to more serious beer things. With the upcoming Seaport Beer Festival down at the Port of Halifax (and in Garrison's side yard) some recent moves by personnel and introduction of brands have made things interesting.

The Hart and Thistle pub, recently opened on the waterfront where the Harbourside Food Court used to be, the one with John Shippey's Brewing Company (RIP) in it. I was in attendance at the launch of their first two beers made in the old Shippey's brewhouse. They were made by Greg "Quick Mash" Nash, the former brewer at Shippeys, and, as far as most people knew, the current brewer at the Pumphouse Brewery in Moncton, one of the suppliers to the Hart and Thistle.

Nash has had a hard time staying in one place these past few years. I am not sure exactly why - I can say for sure that his presence at every place he has worked has resulted in a measurable and near immediate improvement in the beers. But Nash is an iconoclast - he does things his way, and most of us like the results. But we are not the person who pays him, or pays for his ingredients. And we are not party to all that happens between an owner and a brewer. We are what we are - Maritime Drinkers. Of course, we cannot comment on the beer knowledge or business acuity of the people he has worked for either.

All I can say is that if I had the money to start a brewpub, Nash would be my brewer, and I'd have him working for points on the profit from the beer. He makes great extreme beers, but in my opinion, the best beer improvement he made in his time at Garrison was with the previously anemic Tall Ships Amber. It is real beer now. So while you all may focus on his extreme brews, I call attention to his stable brews. His versions of Garrison Red and Brown were the best they ever made, and his Stout was great. The current brewer is very good, more analytical in some ways than Nash, but the ales seem to have lost the correct minerality and salt that British beers have - perhaps he stopped adjusting the water the way Nash did?

Anyway, it will be interesting to see what happens at the beer festival. No Nash (unless somehow the H&T gets in late) No Lorne Romano (a juvenile fallout between him and Garrison owner Brian Titus last year nixed that). Without Greg and Lorne, two of the best brewers, and their great beers will be missed. Almost as much as the fun they would have brought to the event.

Propeller will be there, though. After three years, have Propeller and Garrison finally buried the hatchet enough to play well with others? Time will tell. Maybe we'll witness a beer squirting battle on Saturday?

Back to the Hart and Thistle. Co-owner Bruce Keith put on a low key, but still classy introduction of the new brewer, new brewpub operations, and two new beers. The beers were both thrown together in a manner that we homebrewers sometimes do, and not what one would call "planned". But because Nash knows what he is doing, and the fact that Bruce had no problem being a hop-monkey for a while, they ended up with a couple of very interesting, very good, and, yes, extreme brews to sell.

Talking with Bruce, I believe the place will fly. The former operation always seemed to have problems with crusty landlord, Ben MacRae. But Bruce and Heather also own and run O'Carroll's and have the same landlord. They have some mutual respect - Bruce speaks highly of Mr. MacRae - and there is something worked out here, and we beer lovers will benefit from that.

In other beer news, Kevin Keefe and sons Brian and Joe have the brewery running again on Stairs Street, just barely south of Massachusetts Avenue in the North End (you Google Map it, I am too lazy). They are selling growlers of counter pressure filled versions of all their old favourites. For you non geeks, counter pressure filling means they will last longer before opening. The ones I have tried (Barley Wine, Ringwood, IPA, Best Bitter) have all been yummy. My brother recently waxed eloquent over how good the Best Bitter Special was from growler. So I think we now have a good reason to go north.

A recent trip to Rogues Roost found the beers, as usual, in excellent shape. The IPA was outstanding, with an almost perfect balance between fruit, malt, hops and alcohol. Lorne may be somewhat hyper (now there is an understatement) but he makes great beer, consistently.

The Rock Bottom, a FOP (ferment on premise) is making some drinkable beers, but is sadly uninteresting. They need to get some more stuff into one or two of their beers for me to bother dropping in more. And their wine list, still an "all Bishops, all the time" list illustrates a lack of knowledge and effort in providing interesting and varied wine to clients.

Propeller is still selling the weizen, a great hot day brew. I am not sure if there is any Pilsener left, but it is on tap in a few places around town, and much better now after some time to age. I last had it at Minstrels, where the Thirsty Duck used to be. Another blog post is coming on the term "gastropub", so I won't abuse it here too. Their growler sales, averaging about 100 per day, amaze me. A total sea change in how beer is sold in town, and it has slipped by the media, the NSLC, and the Keith's and Molson's sales reps - the ones who REALLY control the beer industry in town.

The Friday Firkin at Maxwell's Plum continues to attract beer geeks, and entertain random tourist drop-ins. Except last week, when no cask appeared. We made do with the recent release of Blanche de Chambly on draft there. A perfect hot day beer, its lemony crisp and complex flavours were really exciting and thirst quenching to boot. Yum. The Stigl draft on tap there is a funny story. It arrived by accident. Now the NSLC are trying to flog it as something special. If you have been to the brewery in Salzburg, you probably ended up missing one of the best beer halls in the world, almost across the street at Augustinerbrau, where monks still make real beer - a Maerzen that is like mother's milk. Stigl is another good euro-lager. Period.

The Henry House had Granite Brewery beers in fine shape the other night. But I have to admit, it all soured when a friend of the birthday girl we were all there to celebrate with brought in a small homemade cake for people to share, and sing "Happy Birthday" over. The sever bolted from behind the bar to demand $10 for bringing in a cake. Huh? What about the 18 people the birthday group brought into the bar? I now have to ask myself - why go there? I can get the beers from the brewery anyway, and that place is the farthest walk from my house of all the places in town. And anyone who comes up with a policy like that is an ASS and does not deserve my business. Nine of those people had never been to the place before, were liking it a lot, and now will NEVER go back. Nice business development strategy.

There are some good recent additions to the imported beer list, but they do not come close to replacing what has been delisted in the past two years. Please, someday maybe the NSLC will have someone who knows something about beer in charge of the category? They have gotten a bit better since the early 90's, but still are that strangest of entities, a monopoly over products about which they know nothing.

11 comments:

Anonymous said...

I can’t say I share your view on Mr. Nash’s brewing abilities. It’s been my experience (along with others) that there’s often a lack of quality and consistency in his brews. Simply dumping in a shit load of hops to overpower & mask off-flavours does not make for a quality beer. Probably best if you check the sensitivity & calibration of you taste buds before you reach for that next “Extreme” Pump House brew.

Brewnoser said...

I allowed the comment by an anonymous poster to be published here, to demonstrate how people ass-u-me things without reading.

I clearly indicated that I am not one of those "throw hops at it to hide mistakes go away" people, and took the time to point out where I think Greg shows his ability to brew - the stable beers.

The, post, or, really, troll, that I allowed to stand sounds like it was written by someone who drinks mainly to get drunk and does not truly enjoy beer as the fun, and adventurous beverage it is in the hands of the many North American brewers like Nash. In fact, they come off sounding like some old German whose taste buds were burnt out long ago, and long for the same boring Euro lager every day of the sad life they have left.

Beer is fun. Variety is one of the spices of life (so are hops). Hops can be used a lot more than they are in many beers, and less than they are in a very few beers.

A well travelled and educated beer aficionado would know that Greg makes average, or even, dare I say, mild brews compared to brewers on the West Coast, the Midwest, and Colorado.

Relax dude (or dudette, though you sound like an old German guy). Enjoy beer. And don't think you have to love high alpha acids to like beer, but remember that there are a lot of people who do love those styles.

Me? I cut back most IPA's with a red ale, and my fave pint is a true British Best Bitter on cask.

But I know Nash knows what he is doing as well as, and better than, most micro and brewpub brewers - he is just determined to do his own thing. He can make boring shite, he just chooses not to.

But the real test is in what sells. At the Pumphouse, when I went there, his extreme beers, balanced, or unbalanced, sold. But that is history - he is not there any more. Watch for the Pumphouse to tame down, and go boring. Sounds like you’d like that.

Anonymous said...

I’ve got a news flash for BrewNoser and any other self-proclaimed beer aficionados. Not all beer flavours are intentional or desired. When sanitation is not a priority (take a Pump House tour) wort and beer spoilers leave their mark on taste and aroma. When yeast management isn’t a priority, flavour suffers. But that’s okay; Nash can cover it up with lots of hops and roasted malts. I do agree that beer is fun, but don't you think quality is a serious business? BTW, taking 37 hours to produce wort is not something a brewer would normally boast about.



Since you've nailed me for the drunken, burnt up old German that I am, allow me to reciprocate with some assumptions about BrewNoser. I've read enough of your prose to conclude that you are more of a beer "groupie" than an aficionado who is more than a bit pretentious when it comes to his knowledge of beer & the brewing business. I'm sure you're good at something, but beer sure aint it.

Brewnoser said...

Isn't this guy fun?

I found out who he actually may be. Apparently some poor misguided soul has been spamming Nash and New Brunswick based wine and beer writer Craig Pinhey via email for some time. Someone with some good knowledge of big brewery brewing, but completely ignorant of brewpub scale work. You can tell he knows about brewing, but then totally misses the point of small batch brewing.

Maybe I was wrong about him being German, and only acting as if he is. Although his reading and comprehension seems to functioning at or below an ESL level.

It is funny how people read what they want to read sometimes. I read Nash's description of the problems with the brewpub system (the 27 hours) as a humourous account of trying to salvage a brewpub scale batch of beer, with ingredient costs that mattered to the owner. And I understood it as ending up as an experiment that he would almost certainly never try again. But they kept the beer, and it turned out OK. Our anonymous pseudo-German presumably would have dumped it without tasting.

Anyway, this guy pretty well seems to live to post anti-Nash stuff, but I figure all you hopheads who love Greg's beer should realize that not everyone agrees with you. This is all I'll allow of that kind of talk to show up here.

From now on, it's like your mommy told you, if you can't say anything good about someone, don't say anything at all.

BTW, I have not yet had an objectionable beer from Pumphouse, except perhaps for a recent underhopped version of the SOB that was closer to Clancy's than SOB.

As for credentials and expertise, as recognized by others, I am interested in what Mr. Anonymous considers to be suitable credentials for brewers like Mr. Nash, and beer "aficionados" like myself (not self proclaimed, but proclaimed as such by Mr.Anon).


;-)

John A. Robinson said...

No, Ann Ony Mous wouldn't have dumped it.

He/she would've blended it back into some other insipid, quasi-fermented, pseudo malt-based beverage........ :)

JLC said...

From Anonymous
"I've read enough of your prose to conclude that you are more of a beer "groupie" than an aficionado who is more than a bit pretentious when it comes to his knowledge of beer & the brewing business. I'm sure you're good at something, but beer sure aint it."

You know, now that I think of it. All of those gold and silver medals from the Canadian Homebrewing competitions I saw hanging on Brewnoser's wall, sure seemed fake. I'm sure you can get those stamped at any old novelty shop.

Anonymous said...

I did assume something. I assumed that the author of this blog was accepting of views that differed from his own. I was wrong. It appears that the only comments that are welcome here are those that are in full agreement with the author. Anything less will obviously result in name calling and being shut-out. Cheers!

BTW, I am very familiar with small batch, micro-brewing (not so much macros) and I have no idea who Craig Pinhy is.

Brewnoser said...

I only will edit out hate and stalking. I appreciate Anon's latest post in that they do not try to use my blog for either.

And to correct an omission, I assumed that Anon was in New Brunswick, interested in beer and could read. Craig Pinhey (I am pretty sure that is how he spells his last name) is the drinks writer for the Telegraph Journal, Here Magazine, and does a spot on the CBC drive home show. He would be difficult to miss there for anyone interested in wine and beer.

Brews said...

I can hear an axe grinding here without question. Nash's ability to clean up a brewery, find and eliminate sources of infection and improve the end products at any brewery he works for, is legendary. Pretty hard to argue ales like SOB or Tall Ship amber are hiding off flavours under a "shit load of hops".

We're very blessed here in Nova Scotia to have so many micros producing such top shelf brews these days. Despite that, I've experienced a lot of bad, mediocre, uninspired, infected, beer, both micro and macro around here, but I have never tasted off-flavours in a Nash beer, whether it's a light clean ale or one of his brilliant hop-bombs.

I'm totally jazzed that he's back in NS, and crazy about his Simcoe SMASH. His Pumphouse SOB is the first light clean ale I've gotten really excited about in years... the kind of session beer that never gets dull but is totally thirst quenching on a hot summer day or in the dressing room after a couple hours of hockey. It was a brilliant piece of brewing... if it changes though, as rumours have indicated it may have, I'll be finished buying it. My taste buds will know. Keep the original recipe, Pumphouse. Product consistency breeds consumer loyalty.

Alex C. said...

Perhaps you've seen this but here's an interesting article on beer writers and beer bloggers.

http://beerblog.genx40.com/archive/2009/august/sowhoreally

Brewnoser said...

I edited the original post to correct an error. The Granite Brewery was indeed there. Kevin's son Joe held down the fort.