Last week I was treated to a vineyard visit after having spent the previous day judging wines and beer for the National Amateur Winemakers Association. This was not just any vineyard, though, but that of Dr. Allan McIntyre. Located just east of Blomidon Estates winery in Habitant, Kings County this is one of the most highly regarded suppliers of good fruit to Nova Scotia's wineries. Right now, Gaspereau Vineyards and Jost Winery seem to be buying the bulk of the grapes grown here. The picture above and to the right shows Gina Haverstock, winemaker at Gaspereau Vineyards, walking the land with Flavio, Allan McIntyre's son-in-law, in the middle of the Cabernet Franc, with newly planted Pinot Noir in the background.
I was able to visit on a day when Allan was in the vineyard, toiling away. And my co-visitors were none other than Allan's daughter, Star Chick Sommelier* Alanna McIntyre, her mano Flavio, and Sommelier turned winemaker Gina Haverstock. Allan took the time from his labours to show us how he works some of his magic - the secret? Hard work.
The most interesting thing was the amount of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc that exists in this vineyard. I had been fortunate enough to taste both the 05 and 06 Cab Francs made with these grapes while at Jost Winery in July. At the time, I was very impressed with the 06 (a very good vintage in Nova Scotia) as it exhibited very little unripe flavour characteristics and was reminiscent of a very good Niagara Cab Franc. I also got to try the 06 Pinot Noir as well, and was happy to find it tasting like Pinot Noir!
The vines in the photo below are mostly Cab Franc, Pinot Noir and some Leon Millot. You can tell the more vigorous Leon Millot, on the right, by the amount of growth on the top of the vines.
This news is not new to those within the industry. They know what is coming. With Benjamin Bridge about to release their second wine, after the successful launch of Nova 7, a semi sparkling (perlant) aromatic wine with a dry finish, they are about to release a dessert wine.But what really lurks over the horizon there is the upcoming (in maybe as long as two year's time) release of their signature sparkling wines, made in the Methode Champagnoise style, with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and even some Pinot Meunier all grown organically in the Gaspereau Valley. I have not been lucky enough to taste any yet, but those who have, have been effusive in their praise. Of course, it is not like we'll all be swilling it down like Keiths, as it is rumoured to be planned to be released in the $60 to $80 a bottle range.
So, why the "new" in my title? Well, up until these latest sightings, most of the good wine in Nova Scotia has been made from hybrids, or crosses of grapes that are chosen because of how well they survive our winters, and how they produce in our short growing season. But these latest wines defy that logic.
Two nights before this vineyard tour, I was again in the company of Gina, and we were joined by the new winemaker at Benjamin Bridge, Jean-Benoit Deslauriers at a house party prior to the wine judging the next day. The host, John Starr, opened a bottle of 1986 Cuvée d'Amur from Grand Pré, made by Roger Dial 22 years ago. This wine, made from Michurunetz grapes (a vitis vinifera cross on vitis amurensis rootstalk) was still very much alive, showing an amazingly complex, Burgundian nose, and still packing a solid lump of acidity with fruit remnants. An amazing drink, made moreso by being able to share it with Gina and Jean-Benoit. They are the ones (along with with Jurg Stutz, Hans Christian Jost, and David Beardsall I should add), who are picking up the torch that Roger lit a long time ago. They are working with better grapes every year.
And it is still warming up, so they say....
* sorry Mr. Coad, every place should have one, not just NYC
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