I have heard that Kim Crawford, the famed New Zealand winemaker is a big lad. A rugby type (in NZ, anyone is, I suppose, as that is their state religion). But it is now clear to me who really wears the pants in the family. Pity Kim. Perhaps he should have been given a more manly name?
Sunday night saw me, in the accompaniment of a PYT* attend another Food and Wine Club event. This time at Spring Garden Road, and RCR Hospitality's Onyx Restaurant. The reason was to celebrate the wines of Kim Crawford Estates, formerly a "virtual winery" in New Zealand, now grown to prominence partly through the excellent winemaking of Kim (the guy) and the marketing prowess of Erica (the girl).
From what I can tell they met on a rugby field, and possibly, though it was hard to hear, consumated their relationship there, resulting in her not being able, nine months later, to take a big important job in Asia, and having to stay home and mind the family business instead. So much for the history part.
What was never mentioned was how they are owned, not just repped, by Vincor, which is, in turn, owned by Constellation Brands. This is like being a microbrewery and being owned by Labatt, which is owned by InBev. Or like going to the corner store to find out that it is a now a chain store that is owned by Walmart.
That said, the wines were very very good. So maybe Constellation is too busy trying to decide how to make "One Buck Chuck" this year that they have forgotten to step in and screw it up.
The Riesling they showed was fantastic stuff. A small parcel selection, it was elegant, with a telling nose, great fruit, and well balanced acidity. Classy.
The regular Sauvignon Blanc is starting to get so consistent, I am wondering just how manufactured it is. It seems the same to me, regardless of vintage. That said, I have always loved it, and still do. A small parcel Sauvignon Blanc showed very classy, reminding me of Nobilo Icon, and some good California SB's I have had, but was fulloer bodied, and not my style of the grape.
The Merlot-Cab Franc, my first non-pinot red from this winery, was very well balanced, full of new world style fruit, but with a nose that was reminiscent of 2003 Bordeaux. The Merlot was a bigger, somewhat clumsy thing, wandering around in the dark look for some Cab, any Cab, to mix with. A wine for those who don't like wine, really. The 2006 Pinot Noir is an excellent example of the style, with mushrooms, forest floor, pine needles in the nose, and cherry fruit with full body, but a clean acid finish. I find this much improved from their last two vintages.
Onyx, once again for me - this was my third time eating a pre-arranged menu dinner here - came though with shining colours, with a small quibble of cool plates for the main (was the warmer down for the count, or perhaps too small for a banquet style dinner?) I also took points off for spelling on the menu.
A starter of Tuna Carpaccio sliced so thin you could see through it, made from ahi tuna dry rubbed with coriander, and with a pile of lavender & crushed pepper with duo of saffron & wasabi aioli, piled in the middle of the plate, along with an assortment of table breads, began the evening's eating. I loved this with the Riesling.
Then a main course called Duck Two Ways, consiting of a Muscovy duck breast Peking style & duck leg confit, with accompanying vegetables. The confit was simply to die for. Thinking of it now makes my mouth water. This was made even better by the Pinot Noir.
Dessert consisted first of the winery's late harvest Riesling, a good, but not outstanding example of the style, followed by Baked Alaska, not flamed enough to set off the sprinklers, made with a port infused fig center, chocolate & chai ice cream dome with kumquat cranberry compote. Um. Yes. More please.
Erica the marketer came around, fielding the questions proffered by the largely "civilian" wine audience that these events attract. She was unable to answer my question about the clones the riesling was made from, despite an earlier assertion that this was her favourite wine. She did kow that one was Alsatian. And when I suggested that the 2006 Pinot Noir was far better than the previous two vintages, she was about ready to pick me up (with one arm, I wager) and toss me out the door in front of a number 80 bus.
Sorry, but the 04 was mean and thin, and the 05 not a lot better. The 06 is in the stores now, and it rocks.
In the meantime, I am going over to the Garrison Grounds to watch the women's rugby teams practice....
*Pretty Young Thing
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