I attended this event in the company of Susan (the aforementioned wine goddess Sommelier from the Mystery Wine search). We sat with Gina Haverstock, also a Sommelier. Gina is a graduate of the Brock University Cool Climate Viticultural Instiutute. She now makes wine as well as drinking it.
This event was one of the best I have attended in terms of the pairing of the wines with the different courses. There were 20 people, and Chef Craig Flinn and his staff really did a wonderful job of plating interesting food, with real honest flavours and attractive presentation. But kudos go to Sommelier Craig Michie, who now works at The Bishop's Cellar, for his choices on which wines to serve. He had the unenviable task of choosing wines when the winemakers were going to be in attendance with Tony Aspler, who is, without question, Canada's best known and probably most read wine writer. The winemakers in attendance, in addition to Gina, who is currently working at Gaspereau Vineyards, were Suzanne Corkum of St. Famille, Jurg Stutz of Grand Pré, and Hans Christian Jost (you guess where he works).
Host of the event was the ebullient John Stuart of Bishop's Cellar, and the wines all came from their store. The event was the launch of Tony's new book, The Wine Atlas of Canada.
The evening started with a glass of Gaspereau Vineyards NY Muscat. Susan and I (and I think Gina too) all recognized it. First as NY Muscat (that's not hard), then as NOT Jost Eagle Tree (a bit harder) and, finally NOT Grand Pré (the real test). It made a perfect aperatif, with the aromatics filling the senses with that muscat love we all appreciate, and the crisp acidic finish readying the palate for what was to come.
The starter course of soup, a roasted celery with balsamic vinegar concoction, was well matched by the Petite Riviere Vineyards Cotes de Lahave Blanc sur lie. This wine has a striking nose, like that of fine champagne, without the carbonation. There is a slightly vegetal thing happening there that seemed hard to distinguish between the soup and the wine, as the two melded to become better with the other.
Acadie Blanc Reserve from Grand Pré matched well with a mixed green salad with pear, especially matching the pear (we assume that was Craig's thought). Susan went back to the Muscat and encouraged us to try that with the salad, and we were glad we did. A very successful pairing, different from the Acadie Blanc, more integrated and almost sexy.
The next course was a seared pork loin, bacon wrapped, in a smokey fruity sauce (cranberry?) with a stacked scalloped potato. The Jost Trilogy matched this extremely well. This Baco Noir, Foch, Leon Milllot blend seemed to have an answer for all the various flavours the dish offered, but most effectively matched the smokey character of the sauce and the bacon.
Dessert of apple tart with vanilla bean ice cream was very happilty matched by the 2004 St. Famille Icewine. This wine has a great nose, of apple cider, caramel, and creme brulé, with stunning acidity in the mid and finish that really stood up to the sweet dessert.
Tony's book, which I purchased, is an extremely attractive package with thoughly researched content. I bought it for the summaries of just about every Canadian winery, and the good coverage of our part of the world.
And for the ladies, there is a great full page picture of "hunky" Hans Christian in his vineyard. Clothed, though - it is not a calendar. I am sure I saw Susan getting that page of her copy of the book specially autographed by HC as he was leaving....
Anyway, I know the NS winemakers have to be proud of how their products showed on this evening - they certainly owe a debt to Craig Michie for the great job he did in allowing them to show so well, and to be a full and equal partner to the great Chives menu.
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