No, I am not eulogizing the Midtown. Not yet anyway. Heck, I just ate supper at the Midtown tonight with a buddy from my old university days. It has changed a bit, though - they now have chicken wings!
I am talking about the bastion of real beer on the East Coast of Canada, Ginger's Tavern, home of the Granite Brewery.
I could go on and on about the place, starting from 1983 when I used to go there and play pool with longshoremen waiting for a call from the Union Hall down the street to go load stuff. Back then Kenny, Dan and a couple other characters poured pints of the only real beer in Eastern Canada. When Kevin Keefe was a firey angry Irish brewer who nearly had to burn down government buildings to get a license to make beer.
And the music they had there back then, in the mid to late 80's. Bands from Preston and Musquodobit jamming together on stage, everyone groovin' to the music. The only place I knew in Halifax where the local black community was truly welcome. Kevin didn't care - long as you paid your bill and didn't give the musicians too hard a time.
The the sad move from the old place to the Henry House - a fine dining type place that we all feared would cover the edges of Gingers with too much polish, making the beer thing trendy and suave. But the place survived, in the downstairs part anyway. It became more family, more upscale, and the food showed the rest of town what pub food could be.
And always, there was the Best Bitter. My pint, a beer that when fresh, a beer I could not have just one of. And that was the thing - the beer was real. It was real ale, brewed like Kevin learned to make it in England. Made with British equipment. It tasted like the beer we all had on our "find yourself" jaunts to Europe, when we wandered into a country pub in the South of England and asked for a beer.
Then there was the next move, up to a building Kevin owned on Barrington, where he could have the brewpub become a brewery, and keg the beer in casks for sale back to the new owners of the Henry House, and the Lions Head and the Spitfire Arms...
The new place on Barrington took so long to open. When it did I suggested to Kevin that he should change the name to "The Opening Soon" as that sign had stood for over a year in the window. But the Best Bitter was there, and therefore so was I.
The new smoking rules came in, and Kevin spent a lot of money re-workiing the space to meet the percentage area for a smoking bar downstairs and the non-smoking upstairs. He was told he had three years to operate that way.
The music venue upstairs was great, with wonderful acoustics when it was full. I saw a lot of good stuff there. The best was Tom Russell and Andrew Hardin, playing to a packed house, and drinking too much while trying to pick up the girls in "The Johnson Sisters".
Then the smoking ban came, two years early, brought in by liars and thieves. All the work on air handling, renovations and fit up to meet the former rules, work that was amortized over the promised three years was lost. Instead of allowing people a place to smoke in peace, we drove them out on the street, and out of the clubs where they provided the major part of the income. Gingers' downstairs was the best smoking bar in town, next to Tom's. (I don't smoke) Then it was all gone. And unlike Tom's, it never recovered that business.
Joe the bartender ruled the place, and it became a St. John's pub when he was on duty. A boozer, a place to sit at the bar and shoot the breeze. And drink Best Bitter, and, for some, Peculiar. A new crowd of young people found it, and made it their own.
Now the bar is closed. The music silent, and the brewery moving to an industrial site on the north end.
Maybe Mill Island, Kevin's planned brewery, hotel, retail, and condo development in Windsor will happen, eventually. It is the current version of the "opening soon", now, I guess.
Until then, all I can hope is that the Henry House learns to clean their lines. Real beer needs care, and they don't make it there.
There were several days when I had lunch at the Granite in Toronto and made it back to Halifax in time to compare the Best Bitter and Dry Hop at both places within hours. And the time I happened upon a Keefe family reunion in the Toronto Granite, and was invited in to sit down and drink with the brothers. And the time my little niece, coached carefully by the "Mel-star" took a wild throw at her first ever dartboard, and hit the red bulls-eye from 10 feet. And the time... Well, like I said, I could go on for a while.
I have had 25 years worth of dropping in for a pint of Best. I sure hope I can do that for another 25.
Bottoms up!
Monday, February 23, 2009
Brooklyn Warehouse - on the Plateau
A raging snowstorm could not keep me from meeting up with my buddy J-rod last week for lunch at the Brooklyn Warehouse. I have been talking about going there for some time, but every plan always fell through.
Not this time. The space I liked before, when it was the ill fated Vivo, remains, somewhat altered but improved by the winter wind vestibule. I was pleased to see a variety of different beers on tap, including one prepared custom for them by Propeller from their Porter and Honey Wheat, blended to make "Brooklyn Dark". I ordered one and sat down to wait for my lunch companion, as I was early in my eagerness.
The wine list is short, but well balanced and not replete with the "NSLC employee fave of the decade" wines often seen out of the downtown. I was getting a good vibe, seeing my idea of referring to the flat part of Halifax where I live as "The Plateau" starting to make sense again. As in Montreal, where all my favourite places to eat are up on "the plateau".
J-rod arrived and ordered some healthy tea thing, I had my Brooklyn Dark going. I ordered some of the ham chowder, and a Brooklyn Burger (might as well test the place with a standard unit of measurement). J-rod orders the vegan soup, and a Quinoa/Roasted Beet/Diced Pear/Pumpkin Seed Salad with Umeboshi Plum Vinagrette.
Yep, we're compatible. Me and my burger and J-rod with the umeboshi stuff.
It was all good. The sever was attentive, non-intrusive, and the bill was easy.
I am coming back. Finally, a foil to jane's on the common up on the Plateau.
Halifax's neighbourhood to eat, dontcha know?
Not this time. The space I liked before, when it was the ill fated Vivo, remains, somewhat altered but improved by the winter wind vestibule. I was pleased to see a variety of different beers on tap, including one prepared custom for them by Propeller from their Porter and Honey Wheat, blended to make "Brooklyn Dark". I ordered one and sat down to wait for my lunch companion, as I was early in my eagerness.
The wine list is short, but well balanced and not replete with the "NSLC employee fave of the decade" wines often seen out of the downtown. I was getting a good vibe, seeing my idea of referring to the flat part of Halifax where I live as "The Plateau" starting to make sense again. As in Montreal, where all my favourite places to eat are up on "the plateau".
J-rod arrived and ordered some healthy tea thing, I had my Brooklyn Dark going. I ordered some of the ham chowder, and a Brooklyn Burger (might as well test the place with a standard unit of measurement). J-rod orders the vegan soup, and a Quinoa/Roasted Beet/Diced Pear/Pumpkin Seed Salad with Umeboshi Plum Vinagrette.
Yep, we're compatible. Me and my burger and J-rod with the umeboshi stuff.
It was all good. The sever was attentive, non-intrusive, and the bill was easy.
I am coming back. Finally, a foil to jane's on the common up on the Plateau.
Halifax's neighbourhood to eat, dontcha know?
More More Morris East
A quick drop in to Morris East with my sis in law and a semi-famous local winemaker, after the Icewine Festival launch at Bear ended up in yet another evening of great food at my favourite pizza place.
The last time I was there, we managed to get some of that wonderful rabbit/apricot terrine Chef Joel makes. And I had more this time, as well as the Bresaola.
We ate well, although there was one of the pizzas that seemed more like a dessert version than a real meal. Something with pears on it...
The most entertaining part of the evening was watching to see whether the semi-famous winemaker would end up getting the semi-famous (and cute) restaurant owner out to help him in his winery some weekend... (OMG does that make me a gossip?)
The last time I was there, we managed to get some of that wonderful rabbit/apricot terrine Chef Joel makes. And I had more this time, as well as the Bresaola.
We ate well, although there was one of the pizzas that seemed more like a dessert version than a real meal. Something with pears on it...
The most entertaining part of the evening was watching to see whether the semi-famous winemaker would end up getting the semi-famous (and cute) restaurant owner out to help him in his winery some weekend... (OMG does that make me a gossip?)
Wednesday, February 04, 2009
The Bish Certificate of World Cuisine
A long time ago, at the wedding of two friends of mine, I managed to drink an entire bottle of Veuve Cliquot Grand Dame, totally by accident. This was a vintage version of the wine too. Worth over $200 at the store.
Anyway, 7 years later, to the day, I was crafty enough to arrange to have that couple arrive at their anniversary dinner, at Bish, to find a chilled bottle of the same bubbly waiting for them. At last, I had made good on my original accidental gluttony!
But then about 4 months later, an envelope was found in my porch, and inside was a $200 gift certificate to that same Bishy place.
The thing went unused for almost 2 years, but last Saturday, we finally got out and spent the sucker.
Bish has a reputation about town of being pretty expensive, and it lived up to that. I also learned that it is actually called "Bish World Cuisine"! Our server was great, and managed to match our celebratory tone with a very non-intrusive manner, while still being still friendly and open.
We had invited along R&R, because they had taken us out one evening last winter, and we owed them. After a pre-dinner bit of Cremant de Limoux bubbly from Premier Wine and Spirits (very very nice - if you don't want to pop for champagne, this may be the best fallback position in town), we headed downtown. Right down to the water's edge.
Snagging the corner table, and a bottle of Kim Crawford Pinot Gris, we set out to select our meal as the snow started to really collect outside.
I ordered the smoked salmon carpaccio, the red ravioli with fromage blanc, and the veal chop, with truffled wild mushroom sauce, butter roasted potato and asparagus. A meal was on the way.
Other things that came to the table included mussels Normandie et frites; Roasted leek and ginger soup; Ginger marinated scallops on pea shoot salad with peanut vinaigrette; Sea bass, bitter orange, wilted greens and almond raisin couscous; Sesame seared tuna served RARE, "risi e bisi" and pea shoots; Baked halibut with pancetta and marsala, sautéed spinach and butter roasted potatoes..... you get the picture. We pigged out.
A bottle of Babich Pinot Noir arrived somewhere in there too. A night for New Zealand wine, I guess. Though I have to admit I was somewhat surprised at how small the wine list was, and how few choices there were from wines made to go with food. There seems to be a lot of Australian wine, which I tend to regard mostly as a drink on its own, as most lacks any acidity worthy of accompanying $35 entrees.
My meal was excellent, with the exception of the ravioli. I don't know, perhaps that is the original way that the dish is supposed to be, but the filling tasted just like one of those herbed cream cheese appetizers you thaw out for guests you don't like. It tasted very "canned". The salmon was great, served with creme fraiche, the way I like it, and some green sauce dribbled in a pattern to match the creme. My veal chop was done just right, and was tasty. The potatos were perfect, and the truffled jus aromatic and deep dark full of shroomy goodness.
So then we still found room for dessert. I had the Pound cake, espresso ice cream, warm dulce de leche sandwich with crushed chocolate espresso beans. It was huge, but I ate it in 3 seconds. OK, 30.... Well, I did not take my time.
The other desserts tried were the chocolate cake, creme brulée and the chocolate almond torte. No one complained.
Now the hard part was the bill. I think it ended up, with tip to be well over $500. Darn good thing I was pre-certified with my $200 discount! And we almost walked out having only tipped on the residual amount of the bill minus the certificate. Ooops! Great service and we would have stiffed him for almost half what we meant to tip. Cash, as usual, solves pretty well anything.
Then it was off in the storm to the Henry House to watch Irish people drink. At least I got to chat to a red headed wine loving fiddle player who I know, for a bit. But full bellies and a morning hockey game dictated an escape. After our $500 meal, taking the bus home seemed so very appropriate.
Anyway, 7 years later, to the day, I was crafty enough to arrange to have that couple arrive at their anniversary dinner, at Bish, to find a chilled bottle of the same bubbly waiting for them. At last, I had made good on my original accidental gluttony!
But then about 4 months later, an envelope was found in my porch, and inside was a $200 gift certificate to that same Bishy place.
The thing went unused for almost 2 years, but last Saturday, we finally got out and spent the sucker.
Bish has a reputation about town of being pretty expensive, and it lived up to that. I also learned that it is actually called "Bish World Cuisine"! Our server was great, and managed to match our celebratory tone with a very non-intrusive manner, while still being still friendly and open.
We had invited along R&R, because they had taken us out one evening last winter, and we owed them. After a pre-dinner bit of Cremant de Limoux bubbly from Premier Wine and Spirits (very very nice - if you don't want to pop for champagne, this may be the best fallback position in town), we headed downtown. Right down to the water's edge.
Snagging the corner table, and a bottle of Kim Crawford Pinot Gris, we set out to select our meal as the snow started to really collect outside.
I ordered the smoked salmon carpaccio, the red ravioli with fromage blanc, and the veal chop, with truffled wild mushroom sauce, butter roasted potato and asparagus. A meal was on the way.
Other things that came to the table included mussels Normandie et frites; Roasted leek and ginger soup; Ginger marinated scallops on pea shoot salad with peanut vinaigrette; Sea bass, bitter orange, wilted greens and almond raisin couscous; Sesame seared tuna served RARE, "risi e bisi" and pea shoots; Baked halibut with pancetta and marsala, sautéed spinach and butter roasted potatoes..... you get the picture. We pigged out.
A bottle of Babich Pinot Noir arrived somewhere in there too. A night for New Zealand wine, I guess. Though I have to admit I was somewhat surprised at how small the wine list was, and how few choices there were from wines made to go with food. There seems to be a lot of Australian wine, which I tend to regard mostly as a drink on its own, as most lacks any acidity worthy of accompanying $35 entrees.
My meal was excellent, with the exception of the ravioli. I don't know, perhaps that is the original way that the dish is supposed to be, but the filling tasted just like one of those herbed cream cheese appetizers you thaw out for guests you don't like. It tasted very "canned". The salmon was great, served with creme fraiche, the way I like it, and some green sauce dribbled in a pattern to match the creme. My veal chop was done just right, and was tasty. The potatos were perfect, and the truffled jus aromatic and deep dark full of shroomy goodness.
So then we still found room for dessert. I had the Pound cake, espresso ice cream, warm dulce de leche sandwich with crushed chocolate espresso beans. It was huge, but I ate it in 3 seconds. OK, 30.... Well, I did not take my time.
The other desserts tried were the chocolate cake, creme brulée and the chocolate almond torte. No one complained.
Now the hard part was the bill. I think it ended up, with tip to be well over $500. Darn good thing I was pre-certified with my $200 discount! And we almost walked out having only tipped on the residual amount of the bill minus the certificate. Ooops! Great service and we would have stiffed him for almost half what we meant to tip. Cash, as usual, solves pretty well anything.
Then it was off in the storm to the Henry House to watch Irish people drink. At least I got to chat to a red headed wine loving fiddle player who I know, for a bit. But full bellies and a morning hockey game dictated an escape. After our $500 meal, taking the bus home seemed so very appropriate.
Sunday, February 01, 2009
East is East
After attending a fun filled charity wine tasting at Bear, I managed to drag two younger women (than me, anyway) around the corner and into Morris East for a light supper. At least that was the idea. We were soon joined by one of the ladies' husbands.
Jenny Dobbs has done a great job here, and the place has matured since opening into, dare I say it... more than just a pizza joint since I blogged about it when it opened. She has also hired Joel Rousell to be chef. Joel is my favourite chef in town - he seems to almost cook for my palate. In the past my favourite meal one year was at his own place, Ketch Harbour House, and last year my favourite dish in Halifax was his gnocchi, made when he was chef at Saege. I am not kidding - I had to avoid walking down that part of Spring Garden Road, because I could not get past Saege without going in and ordering that dish.
This trip the menu has really expanded in the appetizers section. Wow! Rabbit and Apricot Terrine with toasted brioche; Joel's own Ketch Harbour Bresaola with an herb salad, In-house hot smoked salmon.... And the pizzas are better than before, with the crust now perfected.
The place is still patterned after jane's on the common, and the wine list takes a similar form. In fact, as we were eating jane of jane's came in to eat, as did Tesla-gal! Were were able to get a bottle of Cono Sur Riesling, a bottle waiting to get on to the list to enjoy with out meal. Try the Soppressata Salami, field mushrooms, and black truffle oil pizza, or the latest, the short rib pizza.
Morris East is worth a visit, for sure.
Jenny Dobbs has done a great job here, and the place has matured since opening into, dare I say it... more than just a pizza joint since I blogged about it when it opened. She has also hired Joel Rousell to be chef. Joel is my favourite chef in town - he seems to almost cook for my palate. In the past my favourite meal one year was at his own place, Ketch Harbour House, and last year my favourite dish in Halifax was his gnocchi, made when he was chef at Saege. I am not kidding - I had to avoid walking down that part of Spring Garden Road, because I could not get past Saege without going in and ordering that dish.
This trip the menu has really expanded in the appetizers section. Wow! Rabbit and Apricot Terrine with toasted brioche; Joel's own Ketch Harbour Bresaola with an herb salad, In-house hot smoked salmon.... And the pizzas are better than before, with the crust now perfected.
The place is still patterned after jane's on the common, and the wine list takes a similar form. In fact, as we were eating jane of jane's came in to eat, as did Tesla-gal! Were were able to get a bottle of Cono Sur Riesling, a bottle waiting to get on to the list to enjoy with out meal. Try the Soppressata Salami, field mushrooms, and black truffle oil pizza, or the latest, the short rib pizza.
Morris East is worth a visit, for sure.
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