I would love to be able to tell you that I love the place. In one way I do - the space is great, it would make a perfect neighbourhood pub. And that is where the owners should aim, but instead they are trying to hit the bistro thing, the janes on the common buzz, the almost fine dining, but not downtown "schtick".
This was our second visit. On the first occasion I was somewhat appalled at the wine list - it was 100% Bishop's Cellar. This was later confirmed by Bishop's salesman extraordinaire, Wayne Coyle (what else can you say about a guy who gets their wines into so many places without really knowing very much about wine?). I can't blame him, but I do object to a restauranteur who allows a significant part of their menu, and their image to be "subbed out". What's next I ask? The salads? Maybe soups brought in from some outsourcing soup kitchen? In the end, a restaurant has to take ownership of their entire menu, and that includes the wine list, and, more troublesome, the beers for sale. Most restauranteurs know a tiny bit about wine. Very few know squat about beer, and even less about beer and food matches.
On this visit, the wine list had changed. Substantially. But not for the better. In fact it provides an even greater inside joke for someone who understands the local wine scene. The list now reads like a Port of Wines "old favourites" list. There was not one wine that has anything original, unknown, or is adventurous in the slightest. The Bishops only list provided a lot more interest, and frankly, matches with the food stuff than the one the place has now.
And the beers are no better than they were my first visit. Not one smell of a good beer - only Molson products, and Heineken (does Molson distribute that now? It was on a Molson tower). As far as I am concerned, a restaurant in Halifax, heck, Nova Scotia, without at least one true local beer choice has a flawed drinks list. Check out the good places, and you'll find Propeller, Garrison, even some special label efforts (Opa has its own brand, from Propeller). So Vivo, this beautiful little spot 10 minutes from my house has Rickards Red, "beer by colour" from Molson, made somewhere in Ontario, probably.
The food was good. Well there were a few things you would not expect. Although it was Sunday evening, they open from 5 til 9, and one would hope they'd have some bread that was somewhat fresh. Nope. Stale bread. I asked for some fresh, and they brought me more from the same loaf, I'm sure, but heated up so it is temporarily fresh. Not a good start.
The menu was somewhat disjointed, in that the Appetizers appeared to be designed to allow the place to function as a pub on its restaurant license (like the Nail and Kneecap does). This meant that chicken wings, quesadillas, and the like, shared a menu with beef bourguignon. A bit bizarre...
But the carrot ginger soup of the day we both ordered after the chilly, windy walk was good, a trifle sweet, perhaps, but hearty, warming, and apparently made there.
L's lamb shank was earthy, tasty and not tough, and the veggies were done right, with her waxy mashed potatoes to her liking. My coconut chicken curry was just spicey enough for Halifax, and the use of wild rice was a bit different, but it worked for me. The chicken was a sliced up breast, added to the curry during a stir fry, and therefore did not offer the same experience one gets by cooking it into the curry properly, but the menu offered the dish as vegetarian, with chicken, beef, or shrimp(I think). So I was not expecting it to be "cooked in". Despite my rag about the beer above, the Rickard's Red I had worked very well with the curry, in fact I think the wild rice made that match even better.
We passed on dessert, being full and having some good ice cream waiting at home.
So, in the end, will I go back? Hard to say. For lunch maybe, but the place sorely needs a knowledgeable sommelier to help them with their list. I'd say keep some of the old favourite wines, add some of the new exciting things now available in town, improve the by the glass selection (how many couples buy a bottle anymore?), and try to better match a few things up with the food. Plus there was not one Nova Scotia wine! Perhaps the owners are from away? Maybe they don't drink?
And the beer? Serve some real beer on tap, and have a few different things in bottle. A Hoegaarden would have been wonderful with my curry.
My initial comment about the place being lost between a pub and a restaurant did not hold when I got the bill. Dinner for two, with one beer, no dessert and tip was $68. No, that's not a pub, is it?
UPDATE, SUMMER 2007 - This place is gone, gone, goone. NOT MY FAULT!! Soon to be a coffee bar. Should be a pub.
Sunday, October 29, 2006
Wine of the Week, October 29, 2006
This week, I'm going to a white wine. Find this one and buy it, because it won't be around for much longer. I saw a bunch at the Joseph Howe store on my recent mystery wine quest.
Oddly, the wine was featured at the recent show despite having recently been delisted. Sounds like the NSLC's left hand didn't know what the right hand was doing....
Feudo Arancio, Grillo, 2004. In a clear glass bottle with a sun-like graphic on the label. Honeyed nose, with some perfumy aromatic, and frankly, enticing aromas coming off as it warms a bit. Clean white wine with a fairly full body and some fir tree, a bit of rancio, and pineapple fruit. Not boring, and worth way more than the $9.00 a bottle they are clearing it out at.
Oddly, the wine was featured at the recent show despite having recently been delisted. Sounds like the NSLC's left hand didn't know what the right hand was doing....
Feudo Arancio, Grillo, 2004. In a clear glass bottle with a sun-like graphic on the label. Honeyed nose, with some perfumy aromatic, and frankly, enticing aromas coming off as it warms a bit. Clean white wine with a fairly full body and some fir tree, a bit of rancio, and pineapple fruit. Not boring, and worth way more than the $9.00 a bottle they are clearing it out at.
The Great Mystery Wine Search
In Quebec, and in Ontario, and in... wait for it..... New Brunswick (the NSLC HATES to be bettered by our cousins to the west), the Provincial Government Liquor monopolies all have web sites where you can search out a product and find out which store it is in, and based on a recent inventory (usually the night before) know how many bottles are in stock.
Our own thinks they have the same capability. I thought they did. But they don't.
Yesterday, I embarked on a voyage to find two wines from the Port of Wines Show. The leftovers, so to speak. Both were entered in the website database (www.thenslc.com if you care to try it out, fwiw).
The first search indicated that 22 bottles of one wine I wanted were at the Bayers Lake store, the new designer perfume company look-alike store. The second wine purportedly sat out on the shelves at the Joseph Howe Drive store, a dozen bottles. (the wines were the Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec, and the Didier Vin de Pays D'Oc)
At Bayers Lake, a employee (he was really trying to help) looked high and low, and concluded that the wine might not exist. His system said it was there, all 22 bottles. But it was not there in this dimension of the time space continuum. At Joseph Howe they had never heard of the wine I was looking for, but I don't know if they even were looking for the right wine, as they would not let me check what came up on their search screen.
Both wines are available in New Brunswick, where I'll be for the big show this weekend (wearing my "judge pass") so I'll just buy them there (cheaper too). Yes, it is NB 1, NS 0 on this count.
Our own thinks they have the same capability. I thought they did. But they don't.
Yesterday, I embarked on a voyage to find two wines from the Port of Wines Show. The leftovers, so to speak. Both were entered in the website database (www.thenslc.com if you care to try it out, fwiw).
The first search indicated that 22 bottles of one wine I wanted were at the Bayers Lake store, the new designer perfume company look-alike store. The second wine purportedly sat out on the shelves at the Joseph Howe Drive store, a dozen bottles. (the wines were the Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec, and the Didier Vin de Pays D'Oc)
At Bayers Lake, a employee (he was really trying to help) looked high and low, and concluded that the wine might not exist. His system said it was there, all 22 bottles. But it was not there in this dimension of the time space continuum. At Joseph Howe they had never heard of the wine I was looking for, but I don't know if they even were looking for the right wine, as they would not let me check what came up on their search screen.
Both wines are available in New Brunswick, where I'll be for the big show this weekend (wearing my "judge pass") so I'll just buy them there (cheaper too). Yes, it is NB 1, NS 0 on this count.
Friday, October 20, 2006
Champers in Digby.... or Chef Claude blows us away, again....
Saturday October 14 shall live in infamy in any record of my financial affairs. That was the date that I discovered what the heck all the fuss is about with Champagne. I confess, I blame it all on one Claude Aucoin, Executive Chef & Certified Sommelier, at the Digby Pines Golf Resort and Spa.
For the third year in a row, I attended Chef Claude's wine dinner. Now the past two years, it was a fairly easy thing. I already liked the wines that he had chosen as a theme. White Burgundy, well YUM! Red Bordeaux, also a yum, and after we saw what he served, more than that. But this year, Champagne, I was a bit reluctant. However, fortified by my now faithful lieutenants, the stylish, beautiful, intelligent, and astute tasters, Amy and Susan, I was prepared to be convinced that allowing CO2 to form in a bottle, and create pressure, was not a fault in the winemaking process.
Well, suffice it to say that I now have a problem. There is not one bottle of Champagne in my cellar. Oh, Claude, what have you done?!
Well, here is what he did.
First Course
French Style Scrambled Eggs with Sturgeon Caviar
Borage Leaf Tempura with Prosciutto, Sage and Bocconcini
Smoked Salmon with Celery Root Salad
With the following Champagnes.....
Diebolt-Vallois Cuvée Prestige ~ N.V.
Tarlant la Vigne d'Antan - Non Gréffée ~ 1997
De Saint Gall 1er Cru ~ 1998
De Saint Gall Grand Cru ~ 1998
Pierre Gimmonet Brut 1er Cru "Fleurons" ~ 1999
Second Course
Sautéed Veal Sweet Bread and Lobster served in Puff Pastry
with Fresh Passion Fruit and Noilly Prat Sauce
Leeks and Pea Purée
With the following Champagnes (a Rosé Course)
Duval-Leroy Rosé de Saignée ~ N.V.
Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut ~ N.V.
Tarlant Brut Prestige Rosé ~ 1997
Piper-Heidsieck Rosé ~ N.V.
Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé ~ N.V.
* * * * * *
Demi Tasse of Light Cream of White Asparagus
* * * * * *
Third Course
Roasted Veal Loin with Arugula Pesto, Mushroom Sauce and a touch of White Truffle Oil
Seared Butter Poached Yukon Gold Potato and Pink Oyster Mushrooms
Torchon of Foie Gras with Micro Greens, Seared Plumbs and Pan Jus
With the following Champagnes (really, I'm not kidding)
Tarlant Cuvée Louis ~ 1996 & 1997
Krug Grande Cuvée Brut ~ N.V.
Perrier Jouet Cuvée La Belle Epoque ~ 1998
Henriot 1996 Vintage ~ 1996
Henriot 1990 Vintage ~ 1990
Bollinger Special Cuvée ~ N.V.
Selection of Fine Imported Cheeses
And of course, some Ports....
Silval Vintage Port Quinta Do Noval ~ 1995
Dennis McLaren Vale Old Tawny
Selection of Fine Pastries (like we needed them)
Okay, so the Ports were not exactly stellar (I drank the Dennis, becasue I love it) but by this time, I am glad Claude did not waste the really good stuff on a bunch of bubbled imbibers.
Currently, I am reviewing my credit card limits......
For the third year in a row, I attended Chef Claude's wine dinner. Now the past two years, it was a fairly easy thing. I already liked the wines that he had chosen as a theme. White Burgundy, well YUM! Red Bordeaux, also a yum, and after we saw what he served, more than that. But this year, Champagne, I was a bit reluctant. However, fortified by my now faithful lieutenants, the stylish, beautiful, intelligent, and astute tasters, Amy and Susan, I was prepared to be convinced that allowing CO2 to form in a bottle, and create pressure, was not a fault in the winemaking process.
Well, suffice it to say that I now have a problem. There is not one bottle of Champagne in my cellar. Oh, Claude, what have you done?!
Well, here is what he did.
First Course
French Style Scrambled Eggs with Sturgeon Caviar
Borage Leaf Tempura with Prosciutto, Sage and Bocconcini
Smoked Salmon with Celery Root Salad
With the following Champagnes.....
Diebolt-Vallois Cuvée Prestige ~ N.V.
Tarlant la Vigne d'Antan - Non Gréffée ~ 1997
De Saint Gall 1er Cru ~ 1998
De Saint Gall Grand Cru ~ 1998
Pierre Gimmonet Brut 1er Cru "Fleurons" ~ 1999
Second Course
Sautéed Veal Sweet Bread and Lobster served in Puff Pastry
with Fresh Passion Fruit and Noilly Prat Sauce
Leeks and Pea Purée
With the following Champagnes (a Rosé Course)
Duval-Leroy Rosé de Saignée ~ N.V.
Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut ~ N.V.
Tarlant Brut Prestige Rosé ~ 1997
Piper-Heidsieck Rosé ~ N.V.
Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé ~ N.V.
* * * * * *
Demi Tasse of Light Cream of White Asparagus
* * * * * *
Third Course
Roasted Veal Loin with Arugula Pesto, Mushroom Sauce and a touch of White Truffle Oil
Seared Butter Poached Yukon Gold Potato and Pink Oyster Mushrooms
Torchon of Foie Gras with Micro Greens, Seared Plumbs and Pan Jus
With the following Champagnes (really, I'm not kidding)
Tarlant Cuvée Louis ~ 1996 & 1997
Krug Grande Cuvée Brut ~ N.V.
Perrier Jouet Cuvée La Belle Epoque ~ 1998
Henriot 1996 Vintage ~ 1996
Henriot 1990 Vintage ~ 1990
Bollinger Special Cuvée ~ N.V.
Selection of Fine Imported Cheeses
And of course, some Ports....
Silval Vintage Port Quinta Do Noval ~ 1995
Dennis McLaren Vale Old Tawny
Selection of Fine Pastries (like we needed them)
Okay, so the Ports were not exactly stellar (I drank the Dennis, becasue I love it) but by this time, I am glad Claude did not waste the really good stuff on a bunch of bubbled imbibers.
Currently, I am reviewing my credit card limits......
Sunday, October 01, 2006
The Big Port of Wines Show - Redux
Well if you read my earlier post on this wine event, I can tell you, none of the questions were answered.
I was in the venue for all four sessions. Of the 270 wines there for tasting, I managed to taste 92 enough to form some impression. In some cases, about 45, I have a short note. I did not taste many wines I already know.
My overal impression this year was that the wines were of a higher average quality, with a large number of very good wines between $15 and $20. That will make the monopoly's decisions that much harder as there is little to choose between a lot of the wines. I guess whoever buys the bigger store display programs will be able to sell wine to us.
There was no one great wine at this show. You may think so, but this is my blog. But I did pick a best red and best white, below. Plus, I've included a best buy recommendation at the bottom.
Here are my favourites, by cost bracket, with comment on whether the notes in the program and the medal allocation seemed reasonable.
Class 1 - who cares what it costs
Iscay Merlot Malbec, Argentina, 2003 $50 Amazing, but the 'Drinker agrees with the secret NSLC wine judge cadre.
William Fevre, 2004 Chablis, Beauroy, Prmier Cru, $43 - just about a perfect example of Chablis. The NSLC ignored it, but then maybe they thought it needed more oak.
Bouchard Pere et Fils Savigny-les-Beaune Les Lavieres, 2002, $47. Tied for my best Pinot Noir at the show. Again, perhaps too complex for the judges.
Torres Mas Borras Pinot Noir, Spain, 2004, $47. Great nose, well made, everyone I asked about this one loved it. I bought. This was the one the Burgundy tied with. Maybe the NSLC forgot to judge it?
Eikendahl Vineyards Classique, South Africa, 2002, $43. Bordeaux Blend, my favourite of this style at the show. I bought. NSLC noticed it - Bronze Medal.
Warwick Wine Estates, Trilogy, South Africa, 2003, $42. Bordeaux Blend, close to the Eikendahl. All wines from Warwick were first class, and the NSLC agreed giving medals to all four of their wines, probably making them the most successful winery here, by that measure.
Masi Granderella, Italy, 2002, $39. Best Italian red, easily, by a long way, of the ones I tried. One of the best wines in the show. NSLC Silver.
Heath Wines, 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz, Oz, 2003 $62. Under screwcap! Worth every penny, I suppose. Gold Medal.
Sandalford Premium Shiraz, 2003, Oz, $33. Good example of cooler climate Shiraz from Oz. Will age well.
St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz, Oz, $39. Classic top of the line Oz Shiraz. Gold Medal.
Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002, Oz, $39. Yes, Wolf Blass makes great wine at this level. This was lovely stuff.
Class 2 Under $18 - $30 and worth more. Note, I am being a bit cruel here by leaving out some wines, but I can't include everything. Also I did not taste many wines I already know, including NS wines, etc.
Cono Sur Vision Pinot Noir, Chile, 2005, $22. Great nose, a bit polished, but yummy stuff. I bought. NSLC missed.
Val D'Orbieu, Cuvee Mythique Shiraz Grenache, 2004, $18. Big wine, controlled, interesting. No medal.
Chateau St. Germain Coteaux de Languedoc Organic, $20. Great stuff, both a high quality and a bargoon wine. I bought. No medal, which is totally unbelievable.
Bonterra Vineyards Syrah, 2003, California, $20 Organic. Good example of Cali Syrah for $20 plus it's organic, if that matters to you. NSLC Silver.
Allesverloren Estate Shiraz, 2004, $23, South Africa. One of my show faves. Great wine for the money. I bought. NSLC Missed this, again, hard to believe this did not rate a mdeal, but perhaps all those Warwick wines deservedly took a lot of the available awards.
Warwick Estates Old Bush Vines Pinotage, 2004, $29. More Pinotage than I ever thought you could fit into a bottle and still have it taste like Pinotage. I bought. NSLC Gold.
Hilarius Putz Dry Riesling, 2004, $23, Germany. The best German wine here at the show. But not according to the medals.
Tresa Nivuro Nero D'Avola-Cab Sauvignon, 2003, $24, Italy. Not goopy, but an interesting combo of old vs. new world. No medals - in Italy most red wine awards were given to drinks I have a hard time calling wine. Big goopy sweet port like, things that were truly awful.
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina dei Feudi di San Gregario, 2005, Italy, $25. Complex aromas, layered tastes, banana esters, straw, burlap, rancio, all sorts of things. Very cool. I bought.
Vigneti La Selvanella Chianti Classico Reserva, 2001, $23 Italy. Classic Classico Reserva for a good price. Bronze Medal.
Masi Colbaraca Soave Classico, $24. Excellent, easy to drink, great with food. No medal... huh?
Terre di Giurfo, Ronna Syrah, 2005, $27. Will age into something special I am guessing. Good now, but wait 5 years. No medal, but this is a sleeper.
Vesevo Greco di Tufo 2005, $27 Italy. Possibly best white I tried at the show behind the Chablis. Great stuff, interesting, complex. Platinum last year, nothing this year - someone did not buy advertising!
Dennis Wines, Merlot and Shiraz. Oz, $26, 2004, 03. Both well made wines that will age, and have structure and class.
Heath WInes Southern Sisters Pinot Noir, 2003, Oz, $25. Great nose, bit too much oak, but nice secondary fruit. Silver medal. I bought.
St. Hallett Eden Valley Riesling, 2005, $25 Oz. Best riesling I tasted, by far. In the top three whites, I'd say. (no medal, but that does not surprise me as only the private stores have staff who understand Oz Riesling yet). I bought.
Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cab Sauvignon, 2004, $25, Oz. Classic Oz Cab for $25 and will age.
Class 3 (the best one) BARGOONS! Under $18 but worth a lot more.
Lurton Flor de Torrontes, 2005, Argentina, $15. Aromatic nose, but with lemon lime acidity. Great anytime. Platinum Medal (good job judges!)
Domaine Jean Bousquet Organic Malbec, 2005, $16. Huge monster of a wine that will age a while, perfect with rare beef. Needs time. (I poured this one for two sessions, and I got some for myself). No medal.
Trapiche Broquel Malbec, 2004, $16. More polished approachable Malbec, (a year older). Balanced, classy. No medal.
Concha y Toro Casillero del Diabolo Carmenere, 2005, Chile, $13. Probably the most complex wine for the money at the show. Wonderful value. No medal.
Vina Cantaluna Pinot Noir, Chile, 2005, $14.50. Best value Pinot at the show. Has competition from Trapiche and Cono Sur with wines not at the show. No medal. Someone does not understand Pinot Noir....
Jost Eagle Tree Muscat, Nova Scotia, $17. Best white wine made here. A must for serving with scallops to people from out of Province. No medal, Quebec judges?
Barton & Guestier Vouvray, 2004, France, $17. Textbook Vouvray for $17. So quaffable. No medal.
Chateau St. Germain Didier Coteaux de Languedoc, Organic, 2004, $14. If the Carmenere isn't the most complex wine for the $, then this is. Huge, needing time, but complex and with structure. Unreal value. Totally missed by the judges...
Rene Barbier Tempranillo Merlot, 2004, Spain, $13. Simply a great deal for the complexity and quality. No medal.
Finca Antigua Syrah, 2004, Spain, $17. Structure, fruit and tannin, will age, but nice now. No medal.
KWV International, Steen, 2006, South Africa, $10.50. You cannot beat this for a clean white table wine with some interest, for that price. No medal.
Casa Girelli Fontella Chianti, 2004, Italy, $12.50. You gotta be kidding me. OK, it is a bit hot, but it tastes like Chianti, for $12.50. Unreal. No medal.
Folonari Shiraz, 2005, Italy, $12.30. Better than cheap Oz, and with some structure to boot. Great party wine. No medal.
Saint Clair Vineyards, Vicars Choice Pinot Noir, 2005, NZ, $17.32. Complex, good acidity Pinot Noir for food or drinking. Tastes like a much more expensive bottle. No medal.
Jindalee Premium Selection Pinot Noir, 2004, Oz, $18. Well made, lower alcohol, some pinot funk from Oz for $17.98. No medal.
My best red wine of show? Warwick Estates Old Bush Vines Pinotage, 2004, $29. More Pinotage than I ever thought you could fit into a bottle and still have it taste like Pinotage. This was really my only "ah ha!" wine of the entire weekend. It stretched my idea of what that grape can do, and was just delicious while doing so.
My best white wine of Show? Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina dei Feudi di San Gregario, 2005, Italy, $25. Complex aromas, layered tastes, banana esters, straw, burlap, rancio, all sorts of things. Yes, the Chablis is a better technical wine, and the Eden Valley Riesling was wonderful, but again, I'm going with a wine that set me back on my heels when I tasted it.
Best values
No contest in the white - the KWV International Steen (AKA Chenin Blanc), 2006, South Africa, $10.50
Second is easily the Lurton Flor de Torrontes, 2005, Argentina, $15.
A tie in the reds:
Chateau St. Germain Didier Coteaux de Languedoc, Organic, 2004, $14. Huge, needing time, but complex and with structure.
Casa Girelli Fontella Chianti, 2004, Italy, $12.50. You gotta be kidding me. OK, it is a bit hot, but it tastes like Chianti, for $12.50
It becomes clear that the medal winning wines were not always what I thought should be recognized, but then there are overlaps. These tend to occur where the wines are made with food in mind, and in cooler climates. The judge panel clearly showed a preference for new age style wines made as beverages, with high alcohol, overly extracted fruit, rich flavours and low acidity.
I was in the venue for all four sessions. Of the 270 wines there for tasting, I managed to taste 92 enough to form some impression. In some cases, about 45, I have a short note. I did not taste many wines I already know.
My overal impression this year was that the wines were of a higher average quality, with a large number of very good wines between $15 and $20. That will make the monopoly's decisions that much harder as there is little to choose between a lot of the wines. I guess whoever buys the bigger store display programs will be able to sell wine to us.
There was no one great wine at this show. You may think so, but this is my blog. But I did pick a best red and best white, below. Plus, I've included a best buy recommendation at the bottom.
Here are my favourites, by cost bracket, with comment on whether the notes in the program and the medal allocation seemed reasonable.
Class 1 - who cares what it costs
Iscay Merlot Malbec, Argentina, 2003 $50 Amazing, but the 'Drinker agrees with the secret NSLC wine judge cadre.
William Fevre, 2004 Chablis, Beauroy, Prmier Cru, $43 - just about a perfect example of Chablis. The NSLC ignored it, but then maybe they thought it needed more oak.
Bouchard Pere et Fils Savigny-les-Beaune Les Lavieres, 2002, $47. Tied for my best Pinot Noir at the show. Again, perhaps too complex for the judges.
Torres Mas Borras Pinot Noir, Spain, 2004, $47. Great nose, well made, everyone I asked about this one loved it. I bought. This was the one the Burgundy tied with. Maybe the NSLC forgot to judge it?
Eikendahl Vineyards Classique, South Africa, 2002, $43. Bordeaux Blend, my favourite of this style at the show. I bought. NSLC noticed it - Bronze Medal.
Warwick Wine Estates, Trilogy, South Africa, 2003, $42. Bordeaux Blend, close to the Eikendahl. All wines from Warwick were first class, and the NSLC agreed giving medals to all four of their wines, probably making them the most successful winery here, by that measure.
Masi Granderella, Italy, 2002, $39. Best Italian red, easily, by a long way, of the ones I tried. One of the best wines in the show. NSLC Silver.
Heath Wines, 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz, Oz, 2003 $62. Under screwcap! Worth every penny, I suppose. Gold Medal.
Sandalford Premium Shiraz, 2003, Oz, $33. Good example of cooler climate Shiraz from Oz. Will age well.
St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz, Oz, $39. Classic top of the line Oz Shiraz. Gold Medal.
Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002, Oz, $39. Yes, Wolf Blass makes great wine at this level. This was lovely stuff.
Class 2 Under $18 - $30 and worth more. Note, I am being a bit cruel here by leaving out some wines, but I can't include everything. Also I did not taste many wines I already know, including NS wines, etc.
Cono Sur Vision Pinot Noir, Chile, 2005, $22. Great nose, a bit polished, but yummy stuff. I bought. NSLC missed.
Val D'Orbieu, Cuvee Mythique Shiraz Grenache, 2004, $18. Big wine, controlled, interesting. No medal.
Chateau St. Germain Coteaux de Languedoc Organic, $20. Great stuff, both a high quality and a bargoon wine. I bought. No medal, which is totally unbelievable.
Bonterra Vineyards Syrah, 2003, California, $20 Organic. Good example of Cali Syrah for $20 plus it's organic, if that matters to you. NSLC Silver.
Allesverloren Estate Shiraz, 2004, $23, South Africa. One of my show faves. Great wine for the money. I bought. NSLC Missed this, again, hard to believe this did not rate a mdeal, but perhaps all those Warwick wines deservedly took a lot of the available awards.
Warwick Estates Old Bush Vines Pinotage, 2004, $29. More Pinotage than I ever thought you could fit into a bottle and still have it taste like Pinotage. I bought. NSLC Gold.
Hilarius Putz Dry Riesling, 2004, $23, Germany. The best German wine here at the show. But not according to the medals.
Tresa Nivuro Nero D'Avola-Cab Sauvignon, 2003, $24, Italy. Not goopy, but an interesting combo of old vs. new world. No medals - in Italy most red wine awards were given to drinks I have a hard time calling wine. Big goopy sweet port like, things that were truly awful.
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina dei Feudi di San Gregario, 2005, Italy, $25. Complex aromas, layered tastes, banana esters, straw, burlap, rancio, all sorts of things. Very cool. I bought.
Vigneti La Selvanella Chianti Classico Reserva, 2001, $23 Italy. Classic Classico Reserva for a good price. Bronze Medal.
Masi Colbaraca Soave Classico, $24. Excellent, easy to drink, great with food. No medal... huh?
Terre di Giurfo, Ronna Syrah, 2005, $27. Will age into something special I am guessing. Good now, but wait 5 years. No medal, but this is a sleeper.
Vesevo Greco di Tufo 2005, $27 Italy. Possibly best white I tried at the show behind the Chablis. Great stuff, interesting, complex. Platinum last year, nothing this year - someone did not buy advertising!
Dennis Wines, Merlot and Shiraz. Oz, $26, 2004, 03. Both well made wines that will age, and have structure and class.
Heath WInes Southern Sisters Pinot Noir, 2003, Oz, $25. Great nose, bit too much oak, but nice secondary fruit. Silver medal. I bought.
St. Hallett Eden Valley Riesling, 2005, $25 Oz. Best riesling I tasted, by far. In the top three whites, I'd say. (no medal, but that does not surprise me as only the private stores have staff who understand Oz Riesling yet). I bought.
Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cab Sauvignon, 2004, $25, Oz. Classic Oz Cab for $25 and will age.
Class 3 (the best one) BARGOONS! Under $18 but worth a lot more.
Lurton Flor de Torrontes, 2005, Argentina, $15. Aromatic nose, but with lemon lime acidity. Great anytime. Platinum Medal (good job judges!)
Domaine Jean Bousquet Organic Malbec, 2005, $16. Huge monster of a wine that will age a while, perfect with rare beef. Needs time. (I poured this one for two sessions, and I got some for myself). No medal.
Trapiche Broquel Malbec, 2004, $16. More polished approachable Malbec, (a year older). Balanced, classy. No medal.
Concha y Toro Casillero del Diabolo Carmenere, 2005, Chile, $13. Probably the most complex wine for the money at the show. Wonderful value. No medal.
Vina Cantaluna Pinot Noir, Chile, 2005, $14.50. Best value Pinot at the show. Has competition from Trapiche and Cono Sur with wines not at the show. No medal. Someone does not understand Pinot Noir....
Jost Eagle Tree Muscat, Nova Scotia, $17. Best white wine made here. A must for serving with scallops to people from out of Province. No medal, Quebec judges?
Barton & Guestier Vouvray, 2004, France, $17. Textbook Vouvray for $17. So quaffable. No medal.
Chateau St. Germain Didier Coteaux de Languedoc, Organic, 2004, $14. If the Carmenere isn't the most complex wine for the $, then this is. Huge, needing time, but complex and with structure. Unreal value. Totally missed by the judges...
Rene Barbier Tempranillo Merlot, 2004, Spain, $13. Simply a great deal for the complexity and quality. No medal.
Finca Antigua Syrah, 2004, Spain, $17. Structure, fruit and tannin, will age, but nice now. No medal.
KWV International, Steen, 2006, South Africa, $10.50. You cannot beat this for a clean white table wine with some interest, for that price. No medal.
Casa Girelli Fontella Chianti, 2004, Italy, $12.50. You gotta be kidding me. OK, it is a bit hot, but it tastes like Chianti, for $12.50. Unreal. No medal.
Folonari Shiraz, 2005, Italy, $12.30. Better than cheap Oz, and with some structure to boot. Great party wine. No medal.
Saint Clair Vineyards, Vicars Choice Pinot Noir, 2005, NZ, $17.32. Complex, good acidity Pinot Noir for food or drinking. Tastes like a much more expensive bottle. No medal.
Jindalee Premium Selection Pinot Noir, 2004, Oz, $18. Well made, lower alcohol, some pinot funk from Oz for $17.98. No medal.
My best red wine of show? Warwick Estates Old Bush Vines Pinotage, 2004, $29. More Pinotage than I ever thought you could fit into a bottle and still have it taste like Pinotage. This was really my only "ah ha!" wine of the entire weekend. It stretched my idea of what that grape can do, and was just delicious while doing so.
My best white wine of Show? Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina dei Feudi di San Gregario, 2005, Italy, $25. Complex aromas, layered tastes, banana esters, straw, burlap, rancio, all sorts of things. Yes, the Chablis is a better technical wine, and the Eden Valley Riesling was wonderful, but again, I'm going with a wine that set me back on my heels when I tasted it.
Best values
No contest in the white - the KWV International Steen (AKA Chenin Blanc), 2006, South Africa, $10.50
Second is easily the Lurton Flor de Torrontes, 2005, Argentina, $15.
A tie in the reds:
Chateau St. Germain Didier Coteaux de Languedoc, Organic, 2004, $14. Huge, needing time, but complex and with structure.
Casa Girelli Fontella Chianti, 2004, Italy, $12.50. You gotta be kidding me. OK, it is a bit hot, but it tastes like Chianti, for $12.50
It becomes clear that the medal winning wines were not always what I thought should be recognized, but then there are overlaps. These tend to occur where the wines are made with food in mind, and in cooler climates. The judge panel clearly showed a preference for new age style wines made as beverages, with high alcohol, overly extracted fruit, rich flavours and low acidity.
Sarah Harmer in Liverpool
I managed to combine business and pleasure last week, and was in Liverpool with tickets to Sarah Harmer at the Astor Theatre. This is an approximately 400 seat old wooden building attached to the municipal office building/town hall. This is her "I'm a Mountain" tour.
Let's just say that I went down there as a moderate fan, now I'm in deep. Her voice was so pure, the musicianship so great (including her own guitar playing I might add), that the overall experience one of those that will stay with me for a while.
And she's Canadian!!!
Late evening highlight at Lane's Inn Barss Pub (highly recommended) included one of the band members, Spencer Evans (who also guests on Jill Barber's new album) dropping in and playing the beat up old piano in there, honky tonk style, for scotch.
Buy her music, sing along with it, go see her.
Let's just say that I went down there as a moderate fan, now I'm in deep. Her voice was so pure, the musicianship so great (including her own guitar playing I might add), that the overall experience one of those that will stay with me for a while.
And she's Canadian!!!
Late evening highlight at Lane's Inn Barss Pub (highly recommended) included one of the band members, Spencer Evans (who also guests on Jill Barber's new album) dropping in and playing the beat up old piano in there, honky tonk style, for scotch.
Buy her music, sing along with it, go see her.
Thursday, September 21, 2006
Wine of the Week, September 21
Yeah, I know, it is more like wine of the two weeks....
If you can find some, the 2002 Nippozano Chianti from Frescobaldi is worth the $$. "2002 was a lousy year in Tuscany!", you yell at me, so why am I recommending this wine? Well, it was so bad that the estate reportedly did not make their better Chianti that year. And the best grapes they had went into the cheapo (in comparison) Chianti. The wine is funky, with a lot of character, good primary fruit, typical Italian bitter cherry, and substantial. Oh, and in case it matters to you, this is one case where the Wine Speculator agrees with me.
On the other hand, the 2003 version of this wine also represents good value, but for basically the opposite reason. Apparently 2003 rocked in that part of Tuscany (not as good as 2001), and while the best grapes went into the best wines, even this lowly Chianti was blessed with great fruit. Go figure. Now we just need to learn to look out for the average years, I guess.
If you can find some, the 2002 Nippozano Chianti from Frescobaldi is worth the $$. "2002 was a lousy year in Tuscany!", you yell at me, so why am I recommending this wine? Well, it was so bad that the estate reportedly did not make their better Chianti that year. And the best grapes they had went into the cheapo (in comparison) Chianti. The wine is funky, with a lot of character, good primary fruit, typical Italian bitter cherry, and substantial. Oh, and in case it matters to you, this is one case where the Wine Speculator agrees with me.
On the other hand, the 2003 version of this wine also represents good value, but for basically the opposite reason. Apparently 2003 rocked in that part of Tuscany (not as good as 2001), and while the best grapes went into the best wines, even this lowly Chianti was blessed with great fruit. Go figure. Now we just need to learn to look out for the average years, I guess.
Dead Guy and other Ales
Had a couple of co-workers in for a beer after a public meeting the other night. Gave them Dead Guy Ale from Rogue Brewing in Oregon, and St. Ambroise Pale Ale from Montreal. These are people with disposable income who like beer. They loved these beers. I was drinking Propeller IPA, which is no slouch beer either, but only available in large bottles, or in growlers, direct from the brewery, or in the bottles' case, from a private wine store in the City.
Brian Titus! (Garrison) Are you listening? Don't be afraid of hops, buddy! You might sell more beer. And I bet you can get it into my grubby little paws for less money than the Dead Guy.
Brian Titus! (Garrison) Are you listening? Don't be afraid of hops, buddy! You might sell more beer. And I bet you can get it into my grubby little paws for less money than the Dead Guy.
Here come the Stoned, I mean Stones
Well my neighbourhood is about to be invaded by rock fans headed towards a concert on the public lands turned private rental concert venue we call our Common. The geriatric wonders themselves, the Rolling Stones will be gathering moss in the rainy weather, protected under their multi million dollar stage, while their fans "from 8 to 80" catch their death a cold.
We're drinking on the deck, directly downstream from the sound. Inside if (when) it rains.
And we'll be drinking stuff that is good and have a choice. Not the shite beer already being advertised (is that legal?) by the assorted Keets vans and trucks parked on the grass all over the Common.
Wonder how long before the grass is back. At least the Keets trucks are green.
No one to date has been able to come up with one good reason why the geniuses at City Hall thought our Common would be a good place for the show. This seriously brings into question their competence to fulfill their duty to manage it for the good of all Nova Scotians, whose land it is "in common".
And best of all, we'll have all of 100 policemen to protect our property from 50,000 rioters if something goes wrong.
Now it probably will come off without a hitch, but really, the downside risk is too great. What were they thinking?
We're drinking on the deck, directly downstream from the sound. Inside if (when) it rains.
And we'll be drinking stuff that is good and have a choice. Not the shite beer already being advertised (is that legal?) by the assorted Keets vans and trucks parked on the grass all over the Common.
Wonder how long before the grass is back. At least the Keets trucks are green.
No one to date has been able to come up with one good reason why the geniuses at City Hall thought our Common would be a good place for the show. This seriously brings into question their competence to fulfill their duty to manage it for the good of all Nova Scotians, whose land it is "in common".
And best of all, we'll have all of 100 policemen to protect our property from 50,000 rioters if something goes wrong.
Now it probably will come off without a hitch, but really, the downside risk is too great. What were they thinking?
Monday, September 04, 2006
The Big POW Wine Festival
This is a once a year event (September 28, 29, 30) where a whole pile of wines are offered for tasting to the public. Here are some questions the NSLC might never answer about it.
1. Whether the wines will actually be sold in stores after the show. This is a lotto. Even if the wine sells out and is lauded by critics, there is a disconnect between success at the show and whether a wine will ever be available at a store near you.
2. Whether enough of a wine will be imported so that you can put it on your wine list if you are a licensee. Last year one wine was on at least four restaurant lists after the show, but the NSLC never bothered to order it. This had the interesting effect of turning those places away from the NSLC to Bishop's Cellar, and was a catalysing event in helping them take $1,000,000 worth of sales away from the NSLC in the downtown trade.
3. Who decided a wine was worth a medal, if it beat anything, or if the medal is just an artificial sales boosting device. One year, it was no more than that. But the lack of judges from outside the NSLC organization does nothing to invest any confidence that these medals are anything more than thank you notes for wineries who send their winemaker to the event. The New Brunswick show, in contrast, had a full day of judging by independent judges, none employed by the NBLC or the show organizers. They included local wine writers, sommeliers, and wine instructors. The quality of the wines getting medals in Nova Scotia is sometimes amusing, and often more related to the price and reputation of a wine, than what is actually in the bottle.
4. Why the event is held when all the Northern Hemisphere wine makers are in harvest time and cannot come.
5. Why the event no longer coincides with the greatly successful wine show "tour" that had Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Newfoundland all have their shows concurrently, allowing winemakers, owners, and sales staff the chance to hit the region in one trip.
6. Why its venue has moved from the World Trade Centre, in the middle of downtown among the restaurants the NSLC would like to have as clients, to a sterile location down in the Federal Port Authority Lands. The loss of business to, say the Five Fishermen, should be enough to convince them to try more wine from private stores. Granted, the restaurants in that end of town will not mind.
7. Why it costs so much to attend when all the product, and labour to pour it, is free, paid for by suppliers or provided by volunteers. Surely the rent is not that expensive, and the food not that special.
8. Finally, and this is second hand for me, who does the wine and food matching at the winemakers dinner? Let us pray for them, as usually, none of the wines selected is of a style to drink with a meal, most being big goopy Shiraz, oaky vanilla bean caramel Chardonnay, and odd huge Italian blends of overripe grapes. Sooner or later, maybe a wine with some acidity and grip will win something?
See if you can find the answers to those questions. Let me know if you do, eh?
1. Whether the wines will actually be sold in stores after the show. This is a lotto. Even if the wine sells out and is lauded by critics, there is a disconnect between success at the show and whether a wine will ever be available at a store near you.
2. Whether enough of a wine will be imported so that you can put it on your wine list if you are a licensee. Last year one wine was on at least four restaurant lists after the show, but the NSLC never bothered to order it. This had the interesting effect of turning those places away from the NSLC to Bishop's Cellar, and was a catalysing event in helping them take $1,000,000 worth of sales away from the NSLC in the downtown trade.
3. Who decided a wine was worth a medal, if it beat anything, or if the medal is just an artificial sales boosting device. One year, it was no more than that. But the lack of judges from outside the NSLC organization does nothing to invest any confidence that these medals are anything more than thank you notes for wineries who send their winemaker to the event. The New Brunswick show, in contrast, had a full day of judging by independent judges, none employed by the NBLC or the show organizers. They included local wine writers, sommeliers, and wine instructors. The quality of the wines getting medals in Nova Scotia is sometimes amusing, and often more related to the price and reputation of a wine, than what is actually in the bottle.
4. Why the event is held when all the Northern Hemisphere wine makers are in harvest time and cannot come.
5. Why the event no longer coincides with the greatly successful wine show "tour" that had Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Newfoundland all have their shows concurrently, allowing winemakers, owners, and sales staff the chance to hit the region in one trip.
6. Why its venue has moved from the World Trade Centre, in the middle of downtown among the restaurants the NSLC would like to have as clients, to a sterile location down in the Federal Port Authority Lands. The loss of business to, say the Five Fishermen, should be enough to convince them to try more wine from private stores. Granted, the restaurants in that end of town will not mind.
7. Why it costs so much to attend when all the product, and labour to pour it, is free, paid for by suppliers or provided by volunteers. Surely the rent is not that expensive, and the food not that special.
8. Finally, and this is second hand for me, who does the wine and food matching at the winemakers dinner? Let us pray for them, as usually, none of the wines selected is of a style to drink with a meal, most being big goopy Shiraz, oaky vanilla bean caramel Chardonnay, and odd huge Italian blends of overripe grapes. Sooner or later, maybe a wine with some acidity and grip will win something?
See if you can find the answers to those questions. Let me know if you do, eh?
Sunday, September 03, 2006
Urban Design, Sept 3
Rumour has it that the outside of the new treatment plant some unthinking planners positioned at the entrance to our downtown (Welcome to Halifax, here's our shit!) has encountered enough budget problems that the cladding budget has been affected. Now it will look like the ugly box it was always going to look like anyway. Anyone want to bet on the smell? I think it will smell no more than the "odour-free" landfill at Otter Lake!
And to think, that land could just as well be housing office or residential development that would bring in millions in taxes annually, while the treatment plant could have been put under a parking garage on the DND lands, at no loss to the annual tax base, or to the parking capacity at the Dockyard.
Good thing the engineer responsible for that decision has retired. Of course, he now sits on the UARB, making decisions on whether to have Midtown Towers and such things.....
And to think, that land could just as well be housing office or residential development that would bring in millions in taxes annually, while the treatment plant could have been put under a parking garage on the DND lands, at no loss to the annual tax base, or to the parking capacity at the Dockyard.
Good thing the engineer responsible for that decision has retired. Of course, he now sits on the UARB, making decisions on whether to have Midtown Towers and such things.....
Wine of the Week September 3
This is a catch up on the summer, but Pinot Noir goes with almost anything, and if it isn't too expensive, no one will kill you for chilling it either.
2005 Cono Sur Pinot Noir, Chile, NSLC Regular Stores. Convincing example of Pinot Noir for $12. Hard to beat for value, but delivers an amazingly correct varietal taste for the price. The only wine to challenge this for cheap pinot of the year is the 2005 Trapiche, which is perhaps a better food wine, given its greater acidity. Heck, buy both and tell me which you prefer.
2005 Cono Sur Pinot Noir, Chile, NSLC Regular Stores. Convincing example of Pinot Noir for $12. Hard to beat for value, but delivers an amazingly correct varietal taste for the price. The only wine to challenge this for cheap pinot of the year is the 2005 Trapiche, which is perhaps a better food wine, given its greater acidity. Heck, buy both and tell me which you prefer.
Hello Cruel World
The rants of a madman, or just the opinions of the opinionated. Somewhere in between, perhaps?
This blog chronicles what is happening in Halifax Nova Scotia, and the surrounding communities, in the beer and wine business, restaurants, and, just to be contrary, music and urban design, when I feel like it, and from my perspective.
There is a special almost unending source of ridicule available to the cynic in Nova Scotia, because our liquor industry is run, or at least controlled, by a government appointed pseudo-monopoly run by people who basically know little if anything about the products they sell. Other than that they like to consume them themselves, of course. And get free trips all over the world.
Anyway, with respect to booze - my motto is "You care about what you drink, don't you? After all, you put it in your mouth!"
Some other things I have learned: "Have a reason for everything you do." and
"Conventional wisdom is always wrong, haven't you ever been to a convention?"
It is September 3, 2006. The wine show season is just starting........
This blog chronicles what is happening in Halifax Nova Scotia, and the surrounding communities, in the beer and wine business, restaurants, and, just to be contrary, music and urban design, when I feel like it, and from my perspective.
There is a special almost unending source of ridicule available to the cynic in Nova Scotia, because our liquor industry is run, or at least controlled, by a government appointed pseudo-monopoly run by people who basically know little if anything about the products they sell. Other than that they like to consume them themselves, of course. And get free trips all over the world.
Anyway, with respect to booze - my motto is "You care about what you drink, don't you? After all, you put it in your mouth!"
Some other things I have learned: "Have a reason for everything you do." and
"Conventional wisdom is always wrong, haven't you ever been to a convention?"
It is September 3, 2006. The wine show season is just starting........
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