Sunday, February 25, 2007

Wine of the Week, February 23, 2007

Anakena Chardonnay Reserve, Chile, 2006 ($12.12)

I am on a bit of a Chardonnay revival of late, trying to find nice clean examples of the Queen of Grapes. After my Niagara trip, where I sampled a lot of Chardonnay, I had to admit that some are yummy, just not the overoaked monster things.

This wine sets out what it tries to do - it is a nice, clean, well made simple white wine. It has some pleasant tropical, peach and stone fruit aroma and some clean fresh varietal Chardonnay flavour (heavens, it tastes like the grape!).

Oak, used very sparingly, hardly makes itself known, but it is there in small background hints.

It reminded me of "off-Burgundy" Chardonnay I have had before (like Macon, or St. Veran), an idea that is later reinforced by a taster who does that stuff for a living.

So, don't be afraid, come back to the Chard, but don't waste your money on oak.

This wine can be consumed as a drink, preferrably sipping with friends on a deck, chilled to about 7 - 8 degrees C, or with light foods, and fish with some flavour, like trout.

And the price is right.

Half the way to the pole, or the equator.....

The Restaurant Association of Nova Scotia has been running "Dine Out" a program of Prix Fixé menus at many places around town.

Research indicates that the best looking one for price and menu is at 44 North, the in house restaurant in the former Casino Nova Scotia Hotel, now the Halifax Harbourfront Marriott. A hotel restaurant! You say, how could I eat there?

Well, here is the menu.

To Start

Seared Atlantic Scallops with Wild Mushroom
Spinach & a Saffron Vanilla Sauce
Or
Quenelle of Truffled Brie & Caramelized Apples

Mains

Butter Poached Atlantic Lobster, Sautéed Foie Gras & Port Poached Figs, with Leek, Yukon Gold & Sweet Potato Pave
Or
Braised Northumberland Lamb Shanks with Truffled White Beans, Wild Mushroom & Red Wine Emulsion & Gremolata
Or
Pan Seared Halibut with Sea Salt Fingerling Potatoes, & Kumquat/ Cumin Buerre Blanc

Sweet Temptation

Warm Macadamia and Apple Streusel Cake with Blueberry & Lavender Syrup

One of each course for a fixed price of $37 per person.

So, on a Saturday night, we plan to go for 7:30 pm. A table for 6, please, K&J, and Bucky and his date, Ash. That makes for a tough wine crowd to please. A stop at my place for a shared bottle of Charles Ellner Brut Rosé Champagne (NV) and a few snackies, and we're off.

Now this is where my buddy K used to work, and he is still very well known (and apparently liked) by the remaining staff. I expect the level of service we'll get will exceed the norm.

We order a bottle of Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling, the latest vintage with screwcaps (yeah, no corked wine!) and order up. A tray of nice bread arrives and we chew on it while deciding. Of course, being shellfish sensitive, I've no problem with my choices.

Chef Eric Rochefort (a Cordon Bleu trained Chef and also a Certified Sommelier) comes out, as do many of the staff, to see K, and explains that when he says "truffled" he means truffled. Not just truffle oil, but some real truffles are in the Brie "Quenelle" which is apparently a "stirred up with a spoon" type of thing.

My first course is the Brie. I have ordered a bottle of the Spy Valley Pinot Noir, anticipating that it will match both my courses, and that K will try some too (I am correct on both counts). It arrives, and to our surprise, is from the 2006 vintage! I wonder how they got it here that fast. In time, through the evening, it shows itself to be a wine to buy, and maybe wait a little bit on (screwcap too!).

The truffled brie is gooey, almost like an uncooked bread dough, and you have to cut little chunkies off the main part. Put one in your mouth with some of the diced carmelized apples and YUM, then add some Pinot Noir and the fun increases. I take about twice the time to eat my appetizer as the rest of them do to scarf down their scallops. I have them looking at me expectantly like the mollusk-eaters they are.

In time I finish, and this allows staff to serve the next course, a small amuse-bouche of vodka sorbet on some shredded cured vegetables, including a fantastic visual and taste effect from shredded fennel in strawberry juice.

The main course is coming! Now let's read the menu again. Truffled White Beans, Wild Mushroom & Red Wine Emulsion. That sounds to me almost like cassoulet. The next day, Eric is sitting with me at a wine class and he admits to working on the beans with that in mind, but as it was not a real cassoulet he would not call it by that name (I refer you to the language of cooking discussion earlier in my visit to janes on the common avec Chef Claude).

This dish is fantastic. I am pretty well engrossed in the great braised lamb flavours, and the slightly spicey, rich mushroomy sauce that I spoon beans into my mouth with. I play with different combos of meat, beans, sauce and veg. I dive in. I forget about my dining partners. The wine works well with it, though a South of France Corbieres or Minervois might be even better.

When I come out of my eating frenzy induced trance, with some still left to eat, I check my shirt to make sure I have not splattered food all over it (amazingly, no) and make some table patter, before diving back in to finish.

Well, that was quite nice, eh?

Everyone had enjoyed their food very much - the lobster had been partly dismembered and turned into some fancier cuisine, although the front parts were intact meat. L had the halibut, which she enjoyed. They were all enthusiastically dissecting the pave - a layered construction of leek, Yukon Gold potato, and sweet potato.

In a short while, dessert arrived, and I had some Pinot left to try with that - well, it had so much body and substance, and not too much sugar, that the red wine actually was good, and very interesting with it. I also tried a wee dram of someone's Dow's 20 yr old Tawny Port, as a cheese tray had suddenly appeared from nowhere.

The verdict? One of the best meals I've had this year, and like one of last year's great meals, in a hotel restaurant at that!

MicMac, Paddywhack, is it like the Midtown?

Lunch required fish and chips. Don't ask my why, sometimes it just happens. But I was in Dartmouth, far away from Phil's!

Now John's Lunch is a possibility, and there is the drive out to Eastern Passage for that great spot in the Fisherman's Village, but I wanted somewhere I hadn't been in a while.

And Peter did not seem as enthused about the fat intake from the "fish an'" as I was.

The Micmac Tavern and Grill came to mind - Dartmouth's Midtown.

On arriving I am greeted by Calvin Coolen, ex of the Midtown, and of my high school. Calvin is now big - as in muscles/bodybuilder big. He remembers my face, and the good news is that there are no bad memories associated with it.

A pint of Garrison Red (on tap - Micmac 1, Midtown 0)and a few minutes later, we are enjoying a good solid lunch. The server who does our food is full of suggestions, and alternatives - three types of potato, if you have the roasted potaties, there are three different spices they will do them in... almost too complicated for a tavern. At the Midtown, you get what you ask for, but you can sub any potato in and out of the plate. (Midtown 1, Micmac 1)


The fish and chips arrives along with the ribs for Peter. My fish (a 2 piece) is good, not mushy, not pure fresh, but no sign of formaldehyde or fishy-ness. The fries are excellent. Fish - about the same as the Midtown, actually. Fries - much much better, though the portion is so large I leave enough behind to feed the next guy. (Micmac 2, Midtown 1).

Peter's ribs must be good, becasuse I recall watching him sucking the last shreds off meat off the bones. His potato chunks have a curry spice covering that is a bit salty, but certainly not tavern-normal.

The entire menu is ambitious, with probably more on there than they need, and you can really pay quite a bit for a staeak here if you try. As we drive off, I decide that it is different from the Midtown, and though they have given away a bit of authenticity to the suburbs that have grown around them, the Micmac remains a great place to go for hearty, tasty tavern food. I'd just keep the orders plain and simple.

Though it is great to see a microbrew on tap. Maybe I can talk Eric into a tap - my advice on getting the Propeller in bottle seems to have worked for him...

Monday, February 19, 2007

Shock the Monkey

Post ECMA's for me, pre award show for L, we walk over to The Wooden Monkey for a bite to eat. We had looked in at Little Fish, but it was closed, and the Monkey beckoned.

I love their Seitan Sandwich, to the point where it has been almost all I have ever had here. This trip will be different, I vow.

We started with the Japanese Soy Dumplings. These are very toasty dumplings, served in a hot sauce that is red pepper and hot pepper based, I am guessing. My Propeller Pale Ale is tasty and, BONUS - fresh local product.

L has the lemon haddock - baked haddock in a nice crusty covering, with the baked fries, and salad stuff. Her fish is really good, and manages to not taste overcooked, or mushy either. I have the Braised Beef Sandwich, which comes with a side cup of a dipping sauce/jus and ketchup, the baked fries, and salad stuff (no dressing, so I left it for the garnish it was). This was really really tasty - beefy good, especially after I dumped the dipping sauce on it. The dipping sauce helped with the oven fries, which we a bit on the dry side. (Maybe they read the Chowhound post by Jim Leff on their fries- why not just fry them if you use that much fat anyway - and are trying to limit the fat now?).

We still had time for dessert, though its arrival took an inordinate time. L had the pumpkin pie and I chose the soy silk chocolate pie. Her's tasted like real food, but the crust was more like some other type of pastry, not piecrust. Good, but sort of "trendyfood". My chocolate pie may have been from all natural ingredients, and maybe even good for me, but it still reminded me of something from the freezer section of the supermarket. One way to get good things into your kids, I guess.

Dinner for 2, ordering light, with a juice, one beer, desserts and grat was $74.

While we were eating, on person from a table of out of towners, in for the ECMA's, who had been taking cell phone calls all through their dinner, thanked the waitress for being able to eat out - she had food allergies and sensitivities and never got to eat out. I was wondering why she did not think to have her companions turn off their cellphones and let the rest of us enjoy our dinner too. I think I am developing sensitivities to cellphones in restaurants.

Such is the Wooden Monkey. Trying to do things right, despite its customers. Me included, having ignored the seitan for real beef. Oh well, it's my heart attack.

Sunday, February 18, 2007

The ECMA Report, or how we have lost our "Maritimerness"

Disclaimer: This report may seem somewhat bitchy, because I really did have a great time this year. But what with everyone over-enthusing, and all the gushing, often undeserved compliments in the pro media, I figured I'd argue for the other team - the realists.

Every year, one of the cities, or as some should be called, somewhat large towns, across the Maritimes and Newfoundland hosts the East Coast Music Awards. The main set of awards are usually about as pathetic as the Grammies, with no one who did anything that year of substance ever winning anything, and people being rewarded for sticking to it, or staying home, and punished for going down the road where real opportunties lie (except Gordie Sampson, who is soon to be promoted to Cape Breton deity alongside Allan J. MacEachen and Billy Joe). I mean, has the best band ever from here (Sloan) ever won an ECMA? (oops, guess what, they won something this year!)

What the ECMA's do is bring some focus to local music in the centres thoughout the Maritimes and Newfoundland at a time of year when the successful musicians (those working) are likely to be on cruise ships, at resorts, or at festivals in Australia. Of course this is still a good thing, as one thing I know, our musicians are just as good as anyone else's. Which is of course, by definition, average. That is what I was thinking when some mouthpiece at a showcase blurted out that we just want to show the rest of the world that our musicians are as good as any where else. I frickin' hope so, buddy!

What can make a difference is the vitality of a music scene and local industry that is vital enough to attract talent from other, less vital places. In Halifax, that means, um, well, it mostly means the other places that sometimes host the ECMA's. So when the ECMA's come to the city of Halifax, a lot of people from the other places come here to see how their exports are doing. They are called delegates, and are often getting a free ride paid for by a government organization like "Music NL", as one example. They have big parties and get drunk on their taxpayers' tabs, or on the fees their membership pays. At least as far as I can see, that's what they do.

Now we in Halifax cannot be considered as so sophisticated that we have outgrown our rabidly anxious need to receive adoration, or even a bit of credit for competence from other places, so we do what we can to bring people here to show them how good we are at making music. In fact, this desire for acceptance seems to be one of the underpinnings of the ECMA's - it tends to become a "look at me! See, I can do that too!" type of thing, as we strive to show the rest of Canada what we got, eh?

But I digress. The best part of the ECMA's, arguably, is not the awards show (is it ever the awards show?) but the general level of increased live music activity in the city. And for this, I very much appreciate the fact that the gathering happens. It gets me out to see local bands I might have missed... no, would have missed. Following is a bit of a travelogue of our adventures (I was in the tow of a media type who was covering the thing for an out of Province publication).

Thursday

Out to Gingers for a quick snack - beef stew, hot enough to stay safe to eat, tasty and cheap. The pints of bitter were dead on, as good as Ginger's Best ever is, both the regular and dry hopped version. We have a bit of a Juno nightmare recap with Joe Keefe, enjoying once again the famous story about the biting incident in the lineup for Jully Black.

Then it's down to Tribeca, where we arrive in time to get a seat at a table before the main crowd arrives. This seems too good to be true, and it is. Although the night's entertainment lineup is impressive, we cannot see anything, due to people packing in (almost certainly far over any fire limit - note to self, sit near exits). Not only that, the sound is so muffled, we can not hear Ruth Minnikin (note to self, remember how good she was last week "In the Dead of Winter"?). But we have fun. David Myles' girlfriend (famous CBC personality) is sitting with us, and we learn more about him than we really need to.

Home at 2:00 am, after a grab at a slice of Pizza at Tony's (note to self - what were you thinking?) and to bed.


Friday

Finishing work a bit early, we head down to the Palace to see some of the 24 hour Jam. Let's just say it was Bluegrass Hour, and the music was, um, interesting. A bluegrass version of Copperhead Road was the ___light. What was more fun was that they would not sell me a beer - it was an all Molson event, and despite the probable illegality of it (I think you need a special occasion license to restrict product sales to a paid sponsor) I was ready to play along. So I asked for a Rickards Red - there was a shelf full in the fridge in front of me. Nope, "we can only sell you Molson Ex and Canadian". Huh? But Rickards is Molson. "No, let me see, I can sell you Coors Light and Corona, though". We leave. So weird.

Arriving at Rogue's Roost my usual time. No IPA on tap - well, I guess this is somewhat understandable as the Grand Porter was supposed to be the IPA...... Somehow, I only manage to eat some potato skins.

From there we head down to the Casino and catch the Roots Room show. This was really very good, and ended with the slightly over the top performance of the Divorcees (only one is actually divorced, apparently, but maybe the rest are working on it). Amelia Curran went first, and to my taste, was the best of the acts, though many probably will tell you the Divorcees were. Unless they are a hard line Cape Breton fiddle/piano type, in which case Troy MacGillvary would punch their ticket. Amelia was followed by Norma Macdonald, who was good, but not as memorable as she was when I saw her last summer at the Celtic Corner. Then Troy, who was followed by a young, cute little Cape Breton gal named Chrissy Crowley who plays the fiddle very well, and is somewhat reminiscent of either a young Natalie McMaster... or one of the Brady Bunch.

Then the Divorcees came on and messed with the Caper's heads. That was fun.

Hey, there's Natalie D, half-cut, out drinking with her radio station sponsor pass-mates.

We headed out immediately for Ginger's, for good beer, and for the Music Association of Newfoundland Stage night there. As with Tribeca, we arrive just in time to get a seat before the hoardes. And this seat should be OK - anyone who would be such a jerk to block out our view would be cutting off the view of about 1/4 of the room.

Well, it just goes to show you, we Maritimers have an overdeveloped sense of just how nice we think we are. The people who came into that place were jerks. OK, not all of them, but some of them. Thinking themselves fans, they kept other, perhaps even bigger fans from seeing the acts for part of the night. Especially one parka clad Justin Timberlake wannabe lookalike that we just called "The Flying Squirrel" (he kept his parka on despite how hot it was, and kept airing himself out, you get the picture).

Despite the totally drunken and ignorant flux of "fans", the music was great, and worth being there for. The beer was fine too, with the IPA tasting dead on, as the UK style it is, making Keith's taste like, well, you know.

The evening lineup was as follows:

Ian Foster - Good, interesting songs, needs help with stage presence, voice sometimes annoying at high notes.

Chris Picco - Wow - hold the mike, we have something here. Lloyd Cole come to Newfoundland. This guy can write songs, and sing them. His backup, the rythym section from The Novaks, are not just sitting in for fun. They know the tunes and sing along. My first "find" of the fest.

Duane Andrews - Great finger guitar in the old Jazz thing where they work hard to make their guitars sound bad, like they did when pickups were first used. This man can play. I'll go see more, but I would love to hear him play a more normal guitar.

Sherry Ryan - maybe she was not feeling well. I don't know, there was some buzz around her, but she just fell flat with me. Occasionally off key, not quite country, not quite folk. Her final song brought some redemption, however, slipping occasionally into Lucinda-ness, which is a good place to go. Maybe she just needs the three thousand bad relationships and drug overdoses to catch up to Ms Williams.

The Novaks - Hot, tight, edgey power pop. They look like muppets, or those cute creatures from Star Wars. But who can see them, there are drunks standing in front of the band waving their parkas! Someone tells me the next day that Steve Van Zant is high on them. Not sure if Lil' Stevie has a parka....

Chris Kirby, and then "hey rosetta!" followed, but I left after the Novaks, all music'd out. The media guy I am with stays out real late, catching "On Vinyl" and "The Tom Fun Orchestra", then reportedly hits Tony's again. Does he not know the meaning of the word indigestion?


Saturday

Wake up sometime around 11. WTF? Oh yeah, it's the ECMA's! Yahoo....

Walk down and take lunch at O'Carroll's. I am still running on last evening's potato skins. Steak and Eggs are somewhat disappointing as they seem to use the same "breakfast striploin" that every pub in town uses. After Stayners last week, I am looking for more from this kitchen, attached, as it is, to a fine restaurant. At least the poached eggs are not superballs.

We pop over to the Casino and catch the last part of a Radio Show taping - In Flight Safety sounding like some band I hear on other people's radios. Meeting up with George Bauer (one of my music guru sources) I discover that this may be some band called "Coldplay" that I have heard of, but never really heard. George tells me it is hard to tell the difference - both bands play with the same level of emotion.

The media person had almost snoozed off, which is odd as he is reportedly a BIG Coldplay fan.

I drag him kicking and screaming someting about having Chris Martin's love child, all the way down along the waterfront to Bishops Landing, where we pretend to be interested in $89 bottles of Bordeaux, and then walk up to the new pub in the Brewery Market - The Red Stag. On the way in the Media Person taps the apparently stone archway. It is plastic. In fact almost all the inside of this place is fake plastic stone and brick. But wait, this is a 200 year old building made of real stone and brick - they put fake plastic over the real stone and brick? Lacking confidence in finding anything else real inside, especially beer, we run out of there. Fast.

We land at Maxwell's Plum, scoring the free peanuts, slurping on MacAuslan, Pumphouse, and Propeller beers, and eating a plate of poutine right down to the point where, when you look at it, it just don't look like food anymore.

It has very suddenly become nap time. Home to bed for a couple hours.

Eating at home this time (after my diet of the past few days, I needed real food) and sharing a bottle of good Languedoc red, we pronounce ourselves ready for another kick at the festival. A quick cab ride downtown finds us sliding into the Seahorse just before the crowd hits. Again, we are strategically positioned to be able to get out in case the overfilled room bursts into electrical short-caused flames, but still able to see the band as long as the AH quotient is lower here than in the Newfie event.

Of course, I should have known that we in Halifax can compete with St. John's on everything. Especially the overweight bearded 55 year old dude who parked himself right in front of us, blocking the way to the washroom, and feeling up the girls when they squeezed by as much as he could.

So, who did we see here? Well, this was the Music Nova Scotia Stage.....

Rebekah Higgs - She tries hard, has some good songs, but in Halifax, where great female singers seem to be falling out of the sky nowadays, she seems outmatched vocally and without having found her place yet.

Steven Bowers - Speaking of trying hard, this guy seems to work at collecting friends more than anyone. He has some nice songs (love the one about Catching Bees in Jars), but may not have that extra "it" to overcome the road to anonymity.

Jill Barber - Jill seems a little tipsy tonight, just where you want her to be - relaxed. ("I think I've had a little too much wine") She starts with "Moon River" delivered from the middle of the floor, singing back to her band, and moves on to cover music from her recent, and great, album, For All Time (buy it, that is all I can say). She ends the set by taking a request from the audience (Summertime) and getting everyone else to sing it for her. Two of the three people who did could have been on stage, they were that good.

Hotshot Robot - Holy Shit Batman! The B-52's meet Devo, with a bit of a trashy edge. Hot babe in tight dress on near toy synth playing spacey hooks while Devo-like guitarist slashes at chords played high speed with sloppy dressed but musically impeccable bassist playing edgey lines in time with frenetic drumming all with very bawdy lyrics from the mouth of a babe who looks like butter would not melt in her mouth. Fun fun fun but not for CHNS oldies....

Carmen Townsend - OK, sometime long ago, Jimmy Hendrix and Janis Joplin had a love child and left her in New Waterford. That is the only explanation I can come up with for this girl. Her band, called "The Shakey Deals" needs only to sit back and watch, but they do play along. I was 18 again, for about 15 minutes there.

Dr. dFunkt - And now for something completely different! I thought the Novaks looked a bit odd. This was serious hard paced sweaty funk from a Halifax Band I've never seen before. The leader looked like a version of Doctor Evil on way too many uppers. The bass player looked like some mountain man right out of Deliverance. If the music wasn't so frickin' great you would have to laugh, but instead you just moved to da groove.

I am still not sure if they were real.

Head home, L already there, having been to the Cape Breton night at the Lord Nelson where the stars were on stage, but the sound was not. But she was all excited at having been in attendance at Ashley MacIssac's wedding, which seemed to make up for not hearing anything but bass guitars all night. I made, and scarfed down a chicken burrito and crashed by 4 am.


Sunday

11:45 AM - is that coffee brewing that I hear?

Bacon eggs toast and coffee. Then down to the Songwriters Circle at the Casino to wait in line until they get the thing set up. There was some significant, semi-arrogant manipulation of the people for this one, making sure that we would all be ready by 3, by telling us it started at 2. Pure evil. I could have been in a pub really getting ready.

But it is worth the wait, as Bruce (I am just too good to believe) Gouthro manages to limit his adolescent banter to almost non-embarrassing levels, and participants Amelia Curran (voice almost shot from the weekend's work and revelries, but still impressing), Mark Bragg (voice also shot, he used to be just a blue axeman, now he also writes great, sometimes disturbing songs), Sarah Slean (a Goddess on this planet - ye who choose to disagree shall be burned at the stake - who completely had to rethink - she said "transcribe" the song "Mary" because her piano was tuned wrong, and did so beautifully), and the one who was a bit in over her head, (they always seem to put someone in that spot) Stephanie Hardy. She was OK, but was in deep. I'd like to see her in another context.

I just don't know about Gouthro. He is certainly talented, but he manages to perfectly project the image of someone trying very hard not to take himself seriously, when he obviously does, and maybe to a fault at that.

Dinner, after, at the Wooden Monkey is covered in another post.

And the redux:


1. The ECMA's are fun, but they do serve to remind us that we are no more polite to each other than New Yorkers.

2. At times, the events seem to be designed for the industry people to remind the paying public just how unimportant they are. In time, I wonder who will pay for the music.

3. Is it just me, or do we have more than our share of good female vocalists in Halifax? Jill Barber, Ruth Minnikin, Amelia Curran, Rose Cousins, Meaghan Smith, and Jenn Grant are all making very nice music right now, and there are clearly more in the wings and on the way. And Toni Piggot is making nice jazz stuff too.

4. Those same female vocalists all seem to have a noise in their repertoire at one point or another, some more than others, that sounds like a little doggie barking. "Ow ow-ow-ow Oooowwwww-ow-ow..." It is starting to get irritating, girls. Hold a note for chrissakes! (you're fine Toni, just don't start, please)

5. Guy to watch for - Chris Picco

6. Girl to watch for - Jen Clarke, who fronts Hot Shot Robot. This reminded me of the first time I saw Thrush Hermit and wondered who that kid fronting them was.

7. Music to buy: Rose Cousins, Sarah Slean, Amelia Curran, Jill Barber, maybe The Novaks... yeah, the Novaks. I'll probably get the Hot Shot Robot EP and report back on that. I have a Chris Picco demo he gave me, his album won't be out til spring.

8. Band to stay late to dance to: A tie, Hot Shot Robot and Dr. dFunckt. Either way, you will dance cause you got to.

Saturday, February 17, 2007

One Show at One World

I went to see part of the "In the Dead of Winter" music festival happening in Halifax the week before the ECMA's flew into town with their government grants and money sucking bureaucrats. This festival, organized by a few performers (actual musicians, not the lampreys and leeches from the "Music Industry", my apologies to Steve Coady if he ever reads this, but remember Steve - you used to play for money, you are for real) brought a lot of local talent close to my door on a Saturday when I needed a break from the pubs, and from the responsibilities, what little I have, in life.

I arrived during the first songwriters circle, direct from Dal Theatre's latest production (a fairly surreal piece of theatre) right in the middle of a song by a guy I later found out to be named Royal Wood. I know that sounds a bit like a bathroom fixture product, but this guy can sing. I have to say he has the best voice I have heard from a male singer locally, maybe ever. But then again, it seems that he is from Toronto and was just visiting. Well, at least he is Canadian. I am buying his album, and predicting great things.

Next Pamela Underwater came out and did her set, based on some very tasteful vocals in a loop, plus some guitar or bass lines and building a song from scratch with the machine (a sequencer, or something like that?) She was very good at this, and was able ot cast some kind of ambience/spell over the place once she got going. I saw Danny Michel do this last fall, perhaps in a bit more technically competent manner, but not with the level of art she managed. My only complaint was that the thing was on the floor in front of her, and about all we saw of her was her hair hiding her face as she bent over to play with the thing. Pamela - buy a stand for the sucker!

Another song circle followed with David Myles, Tanya Davis, and Melissa Trottier (Dave Carmichael's partner). This was as good a song swap as I've seen anywhere, with Myles' sincere friendly personality and high level of musicianship anchoring Tanya's honest, sometimes painfully so, songs of love being sought and seldom found; and Melissa's beauty, in song and person. I suppose the highlight for most was the singalong-ability of Myles' "I'm Getting Old" a local CBC "hit", that everyone in the place knew the chorous of, and demonstrated that knowledge. I kinda have Melissa's last song, in French, about swans on the lake in Switzerland where she and Dave were staying/working last year stuck in my head.

I was really there to see Andy McDaniel, ex of Leonard Conan, do his first live set in years. Andy is better known as one of those guys at Sam the Record man who knows what you want before you go in. Andy came on, and set a beautiful groove with his thrown together band of Halifax based musicians. They made a great sound in the place, with his quirky, but likeable vocals mixing tunes, old and new. My favourite was his last, flying solo without backup. Turns out it is a new tune - so Andy is writing songs!

Next up was a guy named Joe Belly (no I am not kidding, and no, he was not fat). He had an honest, slightly high pitched and raspy voice, and some fun songs. I thnk we'll see more of him in time, as I think he is on the edge of better things.

The last act I could stay for was Ruth Minnikin, she of Guthries and Heavy Blinkers fame. Her solo act is quiet, introspective, sometimes funny, and sometimes very beautiful. I do enjoy her song about the spider that came to stay with her for a summer. Dave Christensen, one of the music gurus who make Heavy Blinkers run sat in on flute, doing his usual tastful job of filling and running with the tunes.

I went home, and inspired by the afternoon's aroma filled space from the heathy food kitchen at One World (God the pizza smelled fine), proceeded to make a cake, and a better than average supper, letting the smell of food fill my space too.

Who needs the Eck-maas?

Well, we'll see next week.

Saturday, February 10, 2007

Gypsy Hedgehogs at Stayners

Late evening revelry at Stayners Wharf has us there to catch Hotchiwitchi, a local group that does a pretty good take on Django Reinhart style "hot jazz", We sample the menu as well as the beer.

Jason, formerly at John Shippey's, looks after us well. Good beer, though my Propeller Pale Ale is getting on, having lost some of the hoppy freshness it has when at its best. The Porter is much better this evening.

The appetizers we try are really very very good, and suggest tghe need for a full frontal assault on the menu at a later date. Gravlax with fresh bread and a mustard sauce, and Cajun Chicken strips breaded in house with a corn meal and served with a really good hot sauce, were way above average for the city.

Others at the table who ate were similarily impressed.

And we got a cab prety quickly, on this, the night of the BIG PUB CRAWL.


PS. "Hotchi" or "hotchi-witchi" is a Romanian nickname for the hedgehog.

Chef on the Common

My wine friend, C, and his wife D were coming into town and she wanted to try eating at jane's on the common. This couple has eaten pretty well all over the world, but living outside the city in winter, the best she can do is to have him cook for her. Now for most couples, that would mean that meals might be somewhat limited, but in her case D has access to the skills of one of Nova Scotia's most travelled, well known, and, in the chef world, influential chefs. You see C may be one of my wine geek buddies, but he is also a Chef & Certified Sommelier and Manager of Culinary Team Nova Scotia, our "Provincial Cooking Team".

In short, when he eats at a restaurant, usually the people making the food get a bit anxious. I have been with him at one high end restaurant in Halifax when all the kitchen staff essentially filed out by rank to welcome him, almost like kissing the Pope's ring.

After a couple glasses of Rosé Prosecco, we walk around the corner and find ourselves looking at a 20 minute wait for a table of 4 (L was joining us later).

While at the bar, Jane, who is working, strikes up a conversation, as she usually does. Then she turns to C "You're a chef, aren't you?" I had been trying to keep some anonymity, but apparently that is shot. Plus I did not want him thinking I told her he was coming. But no, turns out she just recognized him. She is, after all, a fairly acute business person, with a somewhat "political" background, so I suppose that is to be expected.

Anyway, we get a table, in time, and L arrives almost as we are being led to it. We order some red wines by the glass (the Jost Trilogy tasted great, simply yummy) and ordered starters, Shrimp Cake for L, salads for C and D and a mushroom tart for me. All were very well received.

Main courses, the daily special Lamb Shank for C and L, and steaks for D and I (I know, we were kinda boring with our orders). My rare steak came medium (in my books, anyway) and D's medium was more like medium well. Great cuts, and tasty (I love Stilton on my beef, it slows up my arteries and keeps me from running into things...)but cooked longer than they should have been for what we asked. C did not enthuse over his main, but was not complaining either, and D did catch him chewing the last morsels directly off the bone, admonishing him about his table manners! My sense was that the lamb was how it should be.

Desserts followed, my Creme Caramel pretty well perfect, C's Chocolate Hazelnut Torte enjoyed, but too much weight for him to finish after the lamb, D's baked Jona Gold Apple with raisins and other things reportedly "delicious", and L's Gingerbread gone like a new Titlist into the lake.

But the fun part was that there was no apparent homage paid. No-one from the kitchen was seen, though in time the place had slowed near the end of the evening and they would not have been overly busy in there. No, C didn't get worshipped like I thought he might.

I enjoyed Jane's light touch, whether she did so deliberately, or not, allowing him to experience the place the way the rest of us do. He is in the business, after all, and should be able to experience the place like anyone else would, so that he can honestly advise others as to whether to go or not. I think C was happy with this, at least I think he was. I know that chefs all have egos - you have to, to do what they do for a living, but he seems to be self assured enough that his ego does not need the stroking that some do. And a good thing, too, because he wasn't getting it this evening!

Sunday, February 04, 2007

The I-Swine Festival - We pig out on Niagara's Finest


An expedition leaves Halifax for Saint Catherines, headed into the middle of the final weekend of the wine growing region's Icewine Festival. We meet up with other like minded people there, and commence a two day tour.

First it is Friday night supper and beers at The Merchant Ale House in St. Catherines. A great selection of beer, mostly quite fresh and tasty, especially the Wellington County Arkell on the hand pump. Hearty, tasty pub food, and great service highlight this cost venue for a cold snowy winter's eve.

The next morning we are up and at it and off to Angel's Gate Winery to meet up with the rest of our friends, making us a 10 person group. We then visit Fielding Estates, sampling their Icewine treat, and generally having a great time there with the welcoming staff.

Then it is off to Vineland Estates for lunch at their beautiful restaurant. On a clear day, you can see the Toronto Skyline, some 60 km away, but today we are greyed in. The view is limited to the vineyard, cloaked in snow, and our fellow dining companions. The food is interesting, tasty and well presented. Service is good, but a bit on the slow side, especially in the process of letting us escape to try more wineries.

We continue on the Malivoire, Cave Spring, Henry of Pelham and Flat Rock. Ending the day's touring in their magnificent tasting and sales room, perched on stilts above their vineyard.



That evening, we feast on our own cooking, after a trip to the grocery store and the opening of numerous bottles. Cheeses, breads, pasta, meats..... and lots of fine Niagara wine.

The next day we are back at it, and today our tour is highlighted by a detailed tour of Stratus, a fairly new entry to the Niagara scene. The tour is hosted by Peter Gamble, who is one of the people behind the soon to be opened Benjamin Bridge Winery in the Gaspereau Valley back home in Nova Scotia.



After a visit to Maleta Estate Winery, we tour Stratus, and visit Lailey Vineyards, Pilleterri Estates, Hillebrand Estates, Caroline Cellars, Coyote's Run, and finally Chateau des Charmes.

All in all, two days of fun, fifteen wineries, and a lot of fine wines.

My conclusions after this trip are that Niagara produces excellent Riesling, very good to excellent Chardonnay, above average Cab Franc, and occasionally, very good Pinot Noir and Meritage. The sparkling wines I tried also showed very well.

I used this trip, my second to this region this year, to reconnect to Chardonnay - I have been turned off it by over-oaking and malolactic smarmy Californian and Australian versions, but am now seeking out the clearer, minerally Chablis style that can sometimes be found where oak is not used, or used sparingly, and Burgundian styles where oak is present, but in balance with good acidity remaining.

In fact, you just might see me recommend a Chardonnay soon - stranger things have happened.